123 won't budge

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by DoubleO7

You could use a bolt. But it is a crap shoot as to how long before it shears the bolt.
I think, the engine firing "pulses" are what lead the pin to hammer into the coupler and wear the renegade slot in the coupler. Then it shears off or is thrown out of shaft.

Then what ever bolt you put in gets hammered until it shears off too.

I think Jeff in PA does make a replacement pin that is a tad bigger to fit tight in the hole. But that worn coupler will still allow the pin to be constantly hammered.

I knurl a pin to increase the diameter


It may last a while or get thrown in short order depending on how bad the original hole is.

[DoubleO7]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Guess you didn't try the sponsors or rweaver. Last complete use 2000 series shaft I bought was around $60.00

The 2-3000 series drive shaft stuff is not a big mover for the guys that recycle old tractors so they are normally a cheap item.

Just yesterday I bought a 2166 shaft assembly with all the poly slugs and both end cups off fleabay for $65 delivered.

[DoubleO7]

Originally Posted by 64fleetside

I have a ujoint setup I'm gonna try, I need a quiet line engine coupler first. Dave Kamp outlines the procedure, its way overkill, will outlast the machine. Had my machinist buddy cut a groove in the driveshaft for a key, got 2 yokes and a small ujoint.
Sam, the only 2000 series driveshafts I have found are pricey(2 bills) or I would have gone that route, I also thought about the wire and electricity fix. How much flex can there be with everything mounted solid?
This was all FUBAR when I got it, I had the coupler welded up, a new driveshaft and pin, after about 3 hrs run time it sheared the pin. Been rollin ever since with a bolt.

Still use a rag joint at the other end or no?
If the driveline has no rag joint(s) or poly slugs somewhere I would think an all metal set up would send vibrations thru out the tractor.

[64fleetside]

Yeah Illl be using a rag joint up front-a quiet line coupler.

[Alvy]

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa

I knurl a pin to increase the diameter


It may last a while or get thrown in short order depending on how bad the original hole is.

Jeff I've always wanted to ask what do you use to do this? Do you have a special tool or machine or chuck it really slow in a lathe? Always wondered

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by Alvy

Jeff I've always wanted to ask what do you use to do this? Do you have a special tool or machine or chuck it really slow in a lathe? Always wondered

A special tool to form the pattern and a true industrial lathe to make it work. My 12" x 30" Monarch lathe weighs 4000 lbs.

[Terry C]

It's a knurling tool made to do that. Most have two small rollers with grooves on the outside of the rollers. The one in the pic is a diamond pattern, some are just straight lines. Takes quite a bit of pressure pushing the two rollers into the part to be knurled. And yes you don't turn the lathe very fast.

[Terry C]

Sorry Jeff I don't type very fast

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by Terry C

It's a knurling tool made to do that. Most have two small rollers with grooves on the outside of the rollers. The one in the pic is a diamond pattern, some are just straight lines. Takes quite a bit of pressure pushing the two rollers into the part to be knurled. And yes you don't turn the lathe very fast.

Correct. It takes a sturdy machine to form knurls.

Originally Posted by Terry C

Sorry Jeff I don't type very fast

I must "hunt and peck" with two fingers faster than you

[drglinski]

I've got two of those pins on order currently. We'll see how well they work when they get here.