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#21
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#22
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Through all the chatter in this thread I've lost track of what's been done and not.
In order to find your problem you need to find out where the electricical gets to and where it doesn't. One prong of your meter on the bat + and the other to a good clean bare spot, not rust, not paint on the S/G, should have 12+v. If you do not have 12+v then you have no ground. If you have 12+v from the bat + to the S/G, then one prong from your meter to bat- and the other to the hot side of the solenoid. Then to the little wire on the solenoid (with the key turned to the start position). Then just follow the same path that the electricical flows through until you find the dead spot. If you fart around jumping from one thing to another, you have created nothing more than a guessing game and may never find out where the problem is.
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#23
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I believe you need to check real well the wire from the solenoid to the starter generator. Based only on what has been said in this thread and what troubleshooting you have done, it sounds as if the system is functioning. I suspect that you have a bad wire or termination on the wire that is carrying voltage but no amperage. Put your red booster cable on the generator side of the solenoid and the other end on the same post of the starter generator, hit the key and see if it will crank.
As J mech said if you could post a picture of the solenoid and how it is wired that would help a lot.
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Gary 1974 1650 50A "budscub" Was my fathers 1969 125 42" 1978 1450 44A dual hydraulics 1984 782 50C dual hydraulics, waiting for vanguard Z-force Cub cadet Zero turn Sears '66 Suburban 10 Sears '66 Suburban 12 2 Breaking plows, 2 disc's, front blade, rear blade, Sickle bar mower, 2 decks 3pt harrow 74 "Green 100 "John"
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#24
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Thank you. I may have found something (not sure however). The little terminal on the solenoid is only getting to 10.8v when I crank it. The solenoid is clicking when I turn the key. Also when I jump the two main posts on the solenoid I still only get the click. I am getting 12v+ everywhere else. Does that mean I have a bad ground at the solenoid even though I have 12v at the two main posts of the solenoid? And if so, how do I better ground a brand new solenoid? It's already mounted directly to the wall. |
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#25
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Ok= will try tomorrow. Will post pic tonight of what I have. Can take more pics tomorrow. |
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#26
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There isn't a simpler starting system in the world than this system. The solenoid is just another switch that lets power go to the starter. Is that "switch" letting 12V go to the starter when you hold the key in the start position, yes or no? |
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#27
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#28
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If I did this right here are a couple of photos of the solenoid that some asked me to post. I took these earlier, but I realize that I need to get better pics in the daylight. Other pics I took were too blurry.
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#29
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When you said you jumped the big post do you mean from one large post to the other? That should not produce a click. if so you definitely have something wired up incorrectly. What should happen when you jump the big post to one another the starter should turn. I have on occasion had to jump across those two big post with an old screwdriver to get one started and back to the house,
You will have fire fly when you do this however. if it doesn't turn over by doing this then, that should only leave faulty cables, unless your wiring connections are really screwed up. If you choose to jump the large post, you will want to use an old screw driver. it will burn the tip. And don't use a small wire it will burn you,
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Gary 1974 1650 50A "budscub" Was my fathers 1969 125 42" 1978 1450 44A dual hydraulics 1984 782 50C dual hydraulics, waiting for vanguard Z-force Cub cadet Zero turn Sears '66 Suburban 10 Sears '66 Suburban 12 2 Breaking plows, 2 disc's, front blade, rear blade, Sickle bar mower, 2 decks 3pt harrow 74 "Green 100 "John"
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#30
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| Tags |
| 129, electrical probs, no crank |
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