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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#21
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Definitely seems like that's your problem with it not running, big evidence on that piston. Reminds me of the old phrase of throwing the hotdog down a hallway. I'm wondering if that would even seal up at .030" over? Is there a ridge at the top of the cylinder?
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub |
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#22
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Guy's I de-glazed the bore and put in a new .010 over piston and rings.
Still no start. I re-checked compression and still 37 psi. I read that if you spin the motor backwards it disables the acr I wrapped a rope around the pto pulley spinning the motor backwards and it read 110 psi. What could be wrong here. New battery, coil, condenser, points, plug. Point's are static timed to just open when s mark is in middle of sight hole. Re-built carburator and tried a new on also. All new wiring. 12 volts at coil. Won't run on ether. Spark looks good grounded on head. Any more ideas John |
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#23
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You didn't bore it?
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#24
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No I didn't. I just de-glazed it and re-ringed it. It never smoked or anything.
I would think I could at least get it to start. |
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#25
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Won't matter if you do, it will likely seize within the fist 8 hours.
Did you even check skirt clearance? Did you take the cam or crank out? Is the cam in time?? Before you tore it apart to do the half-assed rebuild, I asked if the spark plug was getting wet with fuel. You never answered. Does it? Since it takes no hit off either, I think your timing is off, or you aren't really getting spark. The engine is obviously wore out. You really should rebuild it correctly. |
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#26
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I agree with Jon you're asking for big trouble fast without properly sizing the bore.
Reading through this whole topic, what about fuel quality? Is it new, fresh gas, or stuff sitting around for years? If you have spark, fuel and compression this thing should do something, (sputter, pop, backfire, etc, anything really) and thusfar it sounds like it hasn't.
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RUN IN THE RED 782 w/50c deck (red); 782 dual stick, 44c deck (y/w); 1050 w/38c deck; 1864 w/54" GT deck; 1872 project Cub Cadet Pro Z 560 L 42" power angle snowblade, #2 tiller, 2-QA42a snowthrowers, 450 thrower, #2 cart; 54" Haban blade; Brinly box blade, 48" dethatcher, moldboard plow; Agri-Fab sweeper 1200, 1863, 1864 parts machines |
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#27
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haha I knew you guy's were going to say that.
I think it just tired. I never took the crank or cam out. Plug looked like it was getting wet. Didn't really do a rebuild just tried some new rings for fun. I really just need to do a proper rebuild like you guy's say. Only problem I see is somewhere along the lines (it's already .10 over) somebody welded the pto pulley on the front of the crank. If I decide to put a reman 10 or 12 horse in it what parts are interchangeable. Different starter gen bracket, muffler,flywheel and carb obviously. Anything else. This is in a 86 Cub Cadet. Thanks again fellas. John |
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#28
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Between the actual engine, nothing is interchangeable between the 7/8 hp's and the 10 and above.
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