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#21
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Just wanted to report back on the predator 22hp at HF. I went there this morning and I took my pto mounting plate to see if it would bolt on. It fits fine. With the crankshaft adapter sleeve jmech mentioned, it should work fine (the pto part at least).
The flywheel side has a main center bolt of course, but it also has a 3 bolt pattern flange of some sort, I couldn't really see it that good through the screen. An adapter would have to be found or fabricated for the drive shaft yoke, and there may already be one on the market for that application. The bottom foot print bolt pattern is alot smaller than the KT17. some holes would have to be drilled in the mounting plate, no problem there as long as you get it square. The predator says the shaft height is 5 1/4. My KT17 measures about 6 3/4, including the 1/2 shims that are under the KT17. So the predator would have to be raised, should not be a problem as long as the spacers provided a solid area to sit on. Don't know what could be done about a muffler heat shield, or if the exhaust would need to be modified to fit under the hood. The motor does seem to be pretty tall, I will have to put my hood back on and measure from the engine plate to the underside of the hood, and compare that to the height of the predator (I didnt measure the height while I was there), and as far as that goes, the inside width with the side covers on. I did not see a height or width listed on the predator. That's about all I got right now. If I find out more I will report on it. Thanks TB |
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#22
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I am in the early stages of looking into this as the M18 in my 1872 is probably at the end of its life. Smokes when cold and taking longer and longer to clear up, plus one plug is fouling with oil. Not sure I want to deal with doing a rebuild on it.
In some of my searches I have read something about possibly using a flywheel adapter from Small Engine Warehouse for a Honda re-power on the Predator engine. I can't confirm if this works though or if they even still sell it. If it is okay with Texas Blues, would this be a good thread to ask about good donors for kohler vtwins in case someone decided to go that direction with a re-power? Other then just the engine power rating are there other factors that might make one model better then another? Such as driveshaft, PTO pulley size, ease of wiring, etc.... |
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#23
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Kohler and Vanguard's require little modification on a repower. There used to be kits for Honda's. You can look up engines by application at Small Engine Warehouse.
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#24
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Do you know why they stopped using the Honda's?
__________________
1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo. |
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#25
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Small Engine Warehouse only offers the Briggs vanguard as a replacement kit for the cub 682/782 (called them today). They say that Honda stopped warranting their motors on anything that the motor was not designed for, so SPW stopped selling them as a replacement kit for the cub 682. He also mentioned something about how honda changed to a positive ground on those motors? I did not ask the guy for complete details on the whole matter. They do still sell the flywheel adaptor they sold for the honda motors the used to sell for the cubs. He was pushing the vanguard as a "plug and play" option, which im sure it is. He mentioned the flywheel adaptor, the pto shaft adaptor, the engine mounting plate adaptor, and the proper wire harness connector already on the motor. I would have to save some money for that route, guy mentioned $1525.00 to my door. Im still looking for more options. TB
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#26
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Quote:
I'm not a big fan of SEW.... but if you aren't a fab guy, they make it easy. I found CH Kohlers on ebay that I think will work not long ago out of California for as low at like $1100 with $100 shipping. Some were lower, but I don't recall the specs. Honestly, for a simple repower, there are lots of Cubs you can buy for nothing that you can take the motor out of. I happen to know for a fact a member here just bought a 2166(?) with a good engine that he is going to sell...... |
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#27
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Not everyone's cup of tea. But I spent the coin for the SEW replacement for my 1872, and couldn't be happier. To me it was money well spent, and would do it again in a new York minuet.
![]() It's new, and not knowing what kind of maintenance was done on a used engine is a crap-shoot. Especially if you're buying it from another area and not hearing it run. Unless you can find a whole tractor, listen to it, use it, and pull the goods for your transplant, your taking a chance. Your tractor/ your money.
__________________
Make the best of each day , Todd ![]() Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! |
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#28
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Quote:
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#29
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Quote:
Cannon |
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#30
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Been there (CL) alot. In most cases yes there is a way to at least email the guy. In this case no. The only option is to tell craigslist to contact the guy via whatever email he provided when placing the ad, and they will tell him there is no contact info (asked them to do that 2 or 3 times). This email address is not revealed in the ad. Its an oddity that there is no info, but it is what it is. It just happens to be something I was looking for dangit! lol TB
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