Key-way fix - anyone try it? - Page 3

olds45512 · #21 12-20-2016, 09:26 PM

I would replace the basket pulley with a new one, if it has any wear it will wobble and eat the new key way.

Terry C · #22 12-20-2016, 10:32 PM

It might be an illusion, but I think that crank has pretty bad wear on it.
Is that metal that is pushed up on the tapered area?(right next to the biggest rust spot)

J-Mech · #23 12-20-2016, 10:39 PM

Youch!
I'm with Terry. That crank looks pretty worse for the wear!

You might be able to have it welded up and machined down.... maybe. And it might break after some use too. Can't weld the rod journals because they will break, but you might get away with having that end done. I'd suggest a machine shop, but a crank shop would be better. They will weld it with a submerged arc welder on a lathe, so it will be done evenly. Only other choice would be to turn it down and run a thin sleeve.

No more than crankshafts are, I'd probably just replace it.

coakes00 · #24 12-21-2016, 11:04 AM

The previous owner let the ware button go too long and the fingers eventually caught on the pto lever and gutted the pto. He then continued to use the tractor for mowing but the 48" deck was always live. I'm no rocket scientist but I think that has a huge part in why it looks that bad.

I'm going to get the head off and have the bore checked out. If it needs bored and a lot more work I might part it out and just get a new motor. I only wanted to be into this motor for around $200. If the piston is too egg shaped I'll probably just look for a replacement.

coakes00 · #25 12-21-2016, 03:30 PM

Thrust head on the piston measures 3.340 and should be 3.363. Is that probably just from wear? Still need to get it to a shop with the correct tools to check bore but from the look of the piston, I'm thinking the machining may be more than I want to spend on the block and if that's the case, no need to get the key cut.

ol'George · #26 12-21-2016, 04:34 PM

The piston shows many hours wear, the bore will most surely need bored/honed oversize with of course, oversize piston.
There is a Seller on ebay that several here have successfully used, who sells a complete kit for less than $125
Rod/piston/rings/gaskets etc. all you need.
You would need to purchase a good used crank, hopefully not needing turned,and pay for cylinder machining.
You will go over a $200 budget, but will have a new engine for all practical purposes.
I'd do it myself, but to each his own.

Jeff in Pa · #27 12-21-2016, 08:54 PM

That crank has seen better days. I will respectfully decline to machine a new keyway as it would NOT be a good value with that crank.

I don't mind helping folks out but don't want to waste anyone's hard earned money.

Jeff

olds45512 · #28 12-21-2016, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa

That crank has seen better days. I will respectfully decline to machine a new keyway as it would NOT be a good value with that crank.

I don't mind helping folks out but don't want to waste anyone's hard earned money.

Jeff

That's something you don't see everyday, someone more concerned about the customer than there wallet.

ol'George · #29 12-22-2016, 08:36 AM

Jeff is a good honest guy.
If it were my crankshaft, I doubt it would be worth my time to put it in my B'port
mill , as when I got done the keyway would be as new, but the diameter of the crank in that area is worn so even a new clutch basket would still be sloppy and
the "repair" would be short lived.
Now we have all did things to get us by, till a replacement or other arrangements were made.
Planting/harvest or haying time, some unorthodox repairs are always made.

Given the cost and availability of that crank, spray welding or other methods of repair are not cost effective.
It could be cut undersize as others mentioned, and a tight fit bushing made, then a captive keyway milled restoring it, in an event that is was something,
that was unobtainable or a very collectable/valuable instance.
Sorry for the long comment.

coakes00 · #30 12-22-2016, 01:06 PM

Thanks for all the replies and advice.

I'm going to get the block to a garage in town with the proper tools to tell me if its salvageable and estimate how much it would be to bore it out.

A member of the site pm'd me and offered to make a deal on a crank and overhaul kit.

I'm not going to mess with putting money into something that won't last so if the block is salvageable for a reasonable cost, I'll just replace the crank.