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#22
07-04-2017, 07:41 AM
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Go to partstree:
http://www.partstree.com/parts/cub-c...-669970-below/ #21 is the spacer/seal. #24 is either a umbrella poppet valve or a flat metal reed, they need to be need intact you will also need 2 #17 gaskets. You can make them or purchase, don't use sillycone. #22 is a little piece of hogs hair filter, it should be there also. if missing you can use a piece of chore girl/boy copper scouring pad. Just follow the tube out of the air cleaner to the cover/breather. it takes a little 7/16" wrench or socket. pretty simple. 
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#23
07-04-2017, 08:21 AM
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Thanks ol' George. I was looking at that earlier on partstree as a matter of fact. I'm sure this breather is missing some parts, at least the gaskets. It looks like they just plastered the cover down to the block. I have not torn it apart yet but I figure with the three gaskets in the parts diagram it shouldn't look like this:IMG_4396.jpg
Also it's throwing oil up the dip stick tube, which is why stuff looks wet. It appears to not be leaking from the seals yet. Maybe if it is only the breather the problem hasn't progressed to pushing the seals out. There is definitely positive pressure at the breather tube, I put a balloon over it and filled it right up. That should be more neutral with a properly working reed valve I think. I guess you guys talked me into fixing it.  I already have a CH18 ready to go but it'll work for either my 1864 or for my 682 as a repower. Whichever one needs it first. Both tractors are around 1100 hours. I'm planning to swap over the 149 cast iron rear and pump which is ported to upgrade the 682 to hydro lift.
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#24
07-04-2017, 10:05 PM
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Well George, I'm in there and this is all I have. Obviously I'm missing some pieces.
IMG_4409.jpg IMG_4411.jpg IMG_4412.jpg But what am I missing? My parts don't look like partstree' diagram. 
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#25
07-04-2017, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
1 stud #25 1 seal #21 Do you have #24? It is a dime size orange neoprene one way valve with a little "tittie" in the center, it goes over the 4 holes in a cross shape in the cover in your last pix. You also need a 1/4-20 nut to retain the covers on the stud.
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#26
07-04-2017, 10:52 PM
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No. Don't have the tittie. I can just see how oil was free to blow right through there. So, should I replace that part 24 or replace the whole thing with one that has a reed valve? I saw somewhere (on the other IH board) where it says Kohler redesigned it with a reed valve and I found it, part number 5203502S
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#27
07-04-2017, 11:01 PM
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I see 23 and 24 are the same part which appears to be the one with the reed valve that I mentioned. I looked these parts all up on messicks and they have them in stock in Elizabethtown. So I can run down there and get what I need and make sure it's all that I need before I leave. Looks like it'll only be around $30-$40. Thanks for your help.
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#28
07-04-2017, 11:04 PM
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Quote:
part 24 ,rubber valve, is NLA . What they sell is the plate with the newer metal reed valve attached. unless someone here has a good used neoprene one for you, or you can check ebay.  Ya, that thing should have been 'Ol smokey without the valve!
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#30
07-06-2017, 12:53 AM
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Quote:
__________________
Jay 40 years of Using and playing with IH Cub Cadets! Proud owner of the following: Cub Farmall, Super A Farmall, Original, (2)70's, 72, 100, 102, 123, 105, 125, 127, 108, 128, 1450, (3)782's, Yellow 982, 1782, "Sam's" 2182, M Farmall and a #7 trailer
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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