Plowing with aluminum rearend.

[J-Mech]

Sorry, I would have been here sooner, but we had A LOT of dirty windows. Good thing I drool so much.......

I built an adapter to make the tiller a quick mount. It doubles as the mount for the drawbar and lower hitch. Cool thing, it works on any tractor. Now, you don't need anything this elaborate.

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Tim, I would add some steel bars to the plate that run to the axle bolts. Honestly, if you just catch one axle bolt on each side, it will be much better. You would probably be fine with just that bracket, but a little added security is better. If you do use it by itself, my recommendation is to get all thread and bottom it out in the holes and attach the rear plate with nuts. I would put washers behind the plate because the AL cover isn't flat like the CI ones.

[olds45512]

I got the lower bracket mounted but ran into an issue, I couldn't use the sleeve hitch I got from Jeff without modifying the hitch and that wasn't happening. I had a lower bracket for a cast rearend sitting here so I drilled it out and installed it. Once it was on I made some brackets for the side and will weld everything together when I take it to the shop later in the week.

[johncub7172]

That makes sense, since Jeff's are a little different in design and attachment. Looks heavy duty from the original Brinly.

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by olds45512

I got the lower bracket mounted but ran into an issue, I couldn't use the sleeve hitch I got from Jeff without modifying the hitch and that wasn't happening. I had a lower bracket for a cast rearend sitting here so I drilled it out and installed it. Once it was on I made some brackets for the side and will weld everything together when I take it to the shop later in the week.

What was the interference problem with mine?

I could make one without the "extra" ear on it if needed.

[olds45512]

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa

What was the interference problem with mine?

I could make one without the "extra" ear on it if needed.

You make the outside tab longer than the inside and the way that other bracket was made the longer tab kept it from going on far enough to get the pins in. Nothing wrong with your design, it just wouldn't work with the homemade lower bracket.

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by olds45512

You make the outside tab longer than the inside and the way that other bracket was made the longer tab kept it from going on far enough to get the pins in. Nothing wrong with your design, it just wouldn't work with the homemade lower bracket.

Thanks.

I can make your next one equal length on the ears

[olds45512]

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa

Thanks.

I can make your next one equal length on the ears

It's not an issue, I won't be using that bracket for anything now that I modified the other one.

[olds45512]

I also got the AG's and tri ribs switched over from the 1211. I need to talk to a local machinist to have a bushing made for the rear lift and the 1050 will be good to go for plow day.

[Merk]

Xtreme motor works has a 3 or 4 dual with ears tab for cast iron and aluminum rear ends.
http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Part...Cub-Cadet.html
I purchase one of the 3 hole dual tab with ears for my 149: I was stretching bolts that held the 3 hole hitch bracket on my 149. No more problems since.

[olds45512]

My buddy got the bushing made that I needed to bolt the lift bar to the rear rockshaft, now that that's all done all I need to do is weld the brackets on to the lower bracket and it will be ready to plow.