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  #21  
Old 06-01-2019, 09:31 AM
mickb72 mickb72 is offline
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The syrup in the wax bottles made me chuckle, and i remember the party lines.
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  #22  
Old 06-01-2019, 09:42 AM
three4rd three4rd is offline
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lol....never had the party lines, but my wife's parents did. Must have been a bit weird at times when different conversations took place simultaneously. I think this thread needs to be renamed something like 'reminiscences of times past...'
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  #23  
Old 06-02-2019, 05:26 PM
three4rd three4rd is offline
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Do I need to get a special deep socket to re-torque the #4 and 7 head bolts? Don't remember my old ones being this long. My deep socket doesn't even get close. Didn't plan on having to buy a socket to check the torque on these - didn't have to before. Not sure what changed. I know my old head had a variety of different spacers, etc. so perhaps the head bolt actually sat on a spacer (probably not the best way) rather than vice-versa? Can't remember...too much has happened with this tractor between then and now! Wonder how the guy tightened these two? Must have a really deep socket. Thanks for any advice....
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  #24  
Old 06-02-2019, 06:51 PM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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My craftsman 1/2" drive sockets will accept at least a 2-1/2" long stud.
I would think that should be enough??
Not familiar with your engine so I can't say for sure if it is long enough.
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  #25  
Old 06-02-2019, 06:59 PM
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Ive used a regular deep socket on any one I have done without issue. Perhaps the builder changed the studs and put longer ones in for some reason.
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  #26  
Old 06-02-2019, 07:17 PM
three4rd three4rd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
My craftsman 1/2" drive sockets will accept at least a 2-1/2" long stud.
I would think that should be enough??
Not familiar with your engine so I can't say for sure if it is long enough.
Found one that works - a 12-pt socket (not as crazy about using that however especially this one which seems a bit worn). I don't have a 6-pt. in a 9/16". Think maybe I should buy one instead of trusting to the 12-pt. while torquing.
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  #27  
Old 06-02-2019, 07:41 PM
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Put the spacers on first then nuts on top. Depending on your model they are for spacing the heatshield and sometimes the gas tank mount. You will have plenty of room with any deepwell
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  #28  
Old 06-02-2019, 08:05 PM
three4rd three4rd is offline
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#4 and 7 nuts are already torqued though.....would hate to loosen them if I'm not going to also loosen all the others...so not certain if actually removing them is what you're suggesting (?) The rest almost appear to be cap screws - so is it a problem to keep everything as is? The builder had said I don't need to do anything else with it (other than add the shield), cause I recall asking him about it.

I found my notes that I wrote when taking the old head on and off - on the two long studs, first went the bolt directly against the head (as it is now), then there was a metal washer (or even two on the one stud - not sure anymore), and then the last nut that goes on top of the heat shield. The muffler bracket also attaches to the heat shield.
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  #29  
Old 06-02-2019, 09:08 PM
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My 1/2" drive deep well sockets are WAY longer than 3/8" drive deep wells,,
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