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  #21  
Old 05-09-2020, 11:06 AM
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Vrobert Vrobert is offline
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Originally Posted by three4rd View Post
Took apart the old one - all that's in there is a rubber o-ring. What is the 'worn packing' that I was told about as being the cause of the problem?
The O-ring is the packing material. Sometimes it is cork or string that wraps around the rod. The nut gets tightened just enough to compress the packing around the rod to prevent leaks. If the nut bottoms out (metal to metal) the packing must be replaced or increased. A few weeks ago I had that same problem and wrapped some teflon tape under the nut to get more compression. No more leak.
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  #22  
Old 05-09-2020, 12:24 PM
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Coop...I assume you're referring to this stuff..https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-...kizec1dU17BzQ0

So you'd suggest that over some sort of loctite / permatex?
I would not suggest loctite or permatex on pipe threads.. Pipe dope or tape or combination of the 2. Pipe dope is not the same as peratex or loctite

Yes, the oatey yellow is fine
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  #23  
Old 05-09-2020, 12:38 PM
three4rd three4rd is offline
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What my auto parts store had is some cheap yellow tape and so I bought permatex thread sealant. Guess I'll try that first, then if it doesn't work can always run over to Lowes and get the Oatey. I know they have it. The permatex is indicated as ok for fuel lines.
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  #24  
Old 05-09-2020, 12:41 PM
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What my auto parts store had is some cheap yellow tape and so I bought permatex thread sealant. Guess I'll try that first, then if it doesn't work can always run over to Lowes and get the Oatey. I know they have it. The permatex is indicated as ok for fuel lines.
Permatex is a brand name. What product of permatex did you get. Usually when someone says permatex My mind assumes it RTV or silicone. Permatex does have hundreds of products so it does not surprise me if they make a pipe dope product
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  #25  
Old 05-09-2020, 01:50 PM
three4rd three4rd is offline
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I used this one Says it is recommended for fuel systems. I took off the tank so as to be able to dry the threads; otherwise the gas just kept dripping down through the hole - figured it might not work to put sealant on threads already coated with gas. I noticed a small pinprick-sized hole right near the small plate that appears to be riveted to the fuel tank as part of the inside and outside fuel valve assy (?) It doesn't seem to go anywhere as far as I can tell and shining a light against it did not reveal any obvious light inside; though, again, no way to really know. I'm suspecting that tiny hole may have been there all along and I never had any leaks before now. I only noticed it wearing strong reading glasses. Guess I'll find out - time for a new tank if that's where the leak is from. I put a dab of sealant against it at any rate. I'll let the tank sit till tomorrow and probably won't add any gas till after the weekend. It says 72 hours for full cure. Only problem with the sealant as opposed to tape is that, once again, I had to tighten it nearly to the same degree and angle as what I tightened the old one to (in an unsuccessful attempt to stop the leak). It's off a direct line (from where it always was) by maybe 20 degrees or so. I'm buying some new fuel line anyway and if need be can make it longer. Problem is to avoid having the line interfere with the throttle mechanism.
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  #26  
Old 05-09-2020, 02:39 PM
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I used this one Says it is recommended for fuel systems. I took off the tank so as to be able to dry the threads; otherwise the gas just kept dripping down through the hole - figured it might not work to put sealant on threads already coated with gas. I noticed a small pinprick-sized hole right near the small plate that appears to be riveted to the fuel tank as part of the inside and outside fuel valve assy (?) It doesn't seem to go anywhere as far as I can tell and shining a light against it did not reveal any obvious light inside; though, again, no way to really know. I'm suspecting that tiny hole may have been there all along.
Yeah.. thats not the product I would have chosen. Once that sets up it can be a real bear to get it apart again. If you find that the pinhole is leaking there are several different ways to repair it.
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  #27  
Old 05-09-2020, 02:53 PM
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See what happens with it. Hoping I won't need to take it off again.
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  #28  
Old 05-09-2020, 10:34 PM
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Yeah.. thats not the product I would have chosen. Once that sets up it can be a real bear to get it apart again. If you find that the pinhole is leaking there are several different ways to repair it.
Having never used this particular product before, how long does it generally take to set up? Checked it this evening and at least the stuff on the threads below where it goes into the tank still appears to be nowhere near dry. Guess I'll have to wait the full 72 hours, as suggested, before doing much else.
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  #29  
Old 05-10-2020, 07:30 AM
bugeye bugeye is offline
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An anaerobic sealant cures in the absence of oxygen. So, between the metal threads after the specified 72 hours, it should be cured and ready to hold pressure. The exterior exposed sealant will not cure. You may wish to wipe away the exposed sealant. I do not have direct experience with this particular product, but I expect it performs similar to Loctite anaerobic sealants.
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  #30  
Old 05-10-2020, 03:24 PM
three4rd three4rd is offline
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I was thinking also that the stuff on the bottom threads might as well be wiped off if it's not going to set up due to exposure to air.
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