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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#21
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The O-ring is the packing material. Sometimes it is cork or string that wraps around the rod. The nut gets tightened just enough to compress the packing around the rod to prevent leaks. If the nut bottoms out (metal to metal) the packing must be replaced or increased. A few weeks ago I had that same problem and wrapped some teflon tape under the nut to get more compression. No more leak.
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Rusty 149 project with: QA42 snow thrower 38" deck Barn fresh 1811 with: 44c mowing deck QA42A snow thrower 42" snow blade |
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#22
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Yes, the oatey yellow is fine
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Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641 |
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#23
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What my auto parts store had is some cheap yellow tape and so I bought permatex thread sealant. Guess I'll try that first, then if it doesn't work can always run over to Lowes and get the Oatey. I know they have it. The permatex is indicated as ok for fuel lines.
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#24
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Quote:
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Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641 |
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#25
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I used this one Says it is recommended for fuel systems. I took off the tank so as to be able to dry the threads; otherwise the gas just kept dripping down through the hole - figured it might not work to put sealant on threads already coated with gas. I noticed a small pinprick-sized hole right near the small plate that appears to be riveted to the fuel tank as part of the inside and outside fuel valve assy (?) It doesn't seem to go anywhere as far as I can tell and shining a light against it did not reveal any obvious light inside; though, again, no way to really know. I'm suspecting that tiny hole may have been there all along and I never had any leaks before now. I only noticed it wearing strong reading glasses. Guess I'll find out - time for a new tank if that's where the leak is from. I put a dab of sealant against it at any rate. I'll let the tank sit till tomorrow and probably won't add any gas till after the weekend. It says 72 hours for full cure. Only problem with the sealant as opposed to tape is that, once again, I had to tighten it nearly to the same degree and angle as what I tightened the old one to (in an unsuccessful attempt to stop the leak). It's off a direct line (from where it always was) by maybe 20 degrees or so. I'm buying some new fuel line anyway and if need be can make it longer. Problem is to avoid having the line interfere with the throttle mechanism.
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#26
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Quote:
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Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641 |
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#27
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See what happens with it. Hoping I won't need to take it off again.
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#28
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Having never used this particular product before, how long does it generally take to set up? Checked it this evening and at least the stuff on the threads below where it goes into the tank still appears to be nowhere near dry. Guess I'll have to wait the full 72 hours, as suggested, before doing much else.
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#29
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An anaerobic sealant cures in the absence of oxygen. So, between the metal threads after the specified 72 hours, it should be cured and ready to hold pressure. The exterior exposed sealant will not cure. You may wish to wipe away the exposed sealant. I do not have direct experience with this particular product, but I expect it performs similar to Loctite anaerobic sealants.
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1863, 1864, 48" and 54" mower decks, 54" snow plow, 451 snow blower, TracVac 580 |
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#30
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I was thinking also that the stuff on the bottom threads might as well be wiped off if it's not going to set up due to exposure to air.
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