Ideas for a rusty tank

[jbrewer]

Originally Posted by finsruskw

AGAIN: What size tanks are we talking here?

* Thought I mentioned it, but it's a stock gas tank for a K301 in a Cub 123. I'm not sure of the actual dimensions if that's what's needed.


* There's NO way I'm going to try to take the tank apart...I know SOME of my limitations and I'll end up with a bigger mess than I have now. :-)



* My reference to brazing and wire welding were in reference to the frame crack (near the motor mount bolts) not the tank. I'm not taking anything with a flame or sparks near the fuel tank. :-)


* George, that's good to know about the weld. I've got nothing to lose as the brazer that went before me just puddled up brass over a crack and didn't laminate it with anything to provide strength . I'll try and remove as much as I can with a flap disk and do the best I can with the wire welder. It's under the motor, so it'll probably never be seen again.



I got everything in the manual disconnected in preparation to splitting the tractor so I can take a look at the other end of the driveshaft/fix the brakes, but it's not coming apart easily. I'll work again tomorrow.



My wife just commented that Sunday I mentioned "all I'm going to do is swap the motor out. How hard can this be?"



Famous last words!

BTW: It's the 123 in my avatar.

[jbrewer]

Originally Posted by ironman

I can honestly say I have never seen nor heard of anyone that tried to repair a gas tank with an arc welder.
But then again I'm sure that there is someone who tried. Here's yer sign!

It's not going to be me, that's for sure!

[twoton]

I have sealed 3 tanks over the years with Kreem. They are all still in service without problems. This is one;

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...593#post455593

My advice is to be prepared to continue the etching process for an extended period of time till you're certain that all rust is removed, even increasing the concentration of the etching solution if needed. Also, you must make certain that no puddles of sealant are allowed to collect in the tank. Puddles will never dry and will cause failures. Continue to rotate the tank far beyond the recommended times to make sure all sealant is completely cured.

[jbrewer]

Thank you. That's a really good description of the process, and hopefully my tank is not that far gone that its got pinholes .

I appreciate the link.

This is North Carolina. Steel rusts quickly!

[darkminion_17]

You mean tank you!

[jbrewer]

[WesternCannonball]

(Insert appropriate amount of groaning here)

Seriously, though, this has been really helpful to read up on. Just because a tank leaks a little doesn't mean it's done for, like I always thought.
Wonder how many of the little engines sitting out back of the shed can be saved now....

[Red Dave]

Back in either '97 or '98, I sealed a Farmall Gas tank using a sealer product I got from an advertiser in Red Power Magazine. I had never done this to a tank before, so I followed the instructions very closely. I cleaned and prepped it as thoroughly as I could. I spent a lot of time on it. The tank had baffles and a few pinholes in it, but I went ahead because I wanted to save the tank.

It was a success because it is still good to this day (probably jinxed myself now ).

It was this stuff:
https://www.theshopproducts.com/prod...nk-sealer.html

Never used it before or since, so the only experience I have with it is that one tank.

[jbrewer]

While I generally hate plastic stuff, it's too bad there's not a "bolt in replacement" for the CC tanks made of the same heavy plastic that gas portable gas cans are made of. The tricky think about that arrangement would be sealing the gas feed port, but it can be done. The 782D I have doesn't seem to drop diesel from that grommet arrangement in the bottom of the plastic tank.

[darkminion_17]

Kohler does make em' and ccs has a picture of one.