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  #31  
Old 11-05-2013, 08:11 AM
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I pulled the hydro apart to see what happened. Looks like the motor assembly lost the slipper retainer ring (in small pieces) and several of the slippers (little brass caps) came off or got lodged sideways on the pistons in the cylinder block. the pump assembly looked perfect. I think one of the slippers got wedged between the cylinder block and the side of the case, causing the crack. It's amazing how simple this device is. Other than the hidden passages for oil to flow from the pump to the motor, it's easy to see how this works.
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  #32  
Old 11-05-2013, 08:37 AM
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I'd bet someone towed that tractor.
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  #33  
Old 11-05-2013, 09:01 AM
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How does towing cause this kind of damage?
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  #34  
Old 11-05-2013, 09:25 AM
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The motor section will spin with no hydraulic pressure to hold the slippers on the end of the pistons in contact with the swash plate and they get beat up.
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  #35  
Old 11-05-2013, 11:18 AM
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I'd bet someone towed that tractor.
I would agree!
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  #36  
Old 11-05-2013, 11:23 AM
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I would agree!
I second that!
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  #37  
Old 11-05-2013, 11:53 AM
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How far would you have had to tow this tractor to cause this kind of damage? A 100 feet? A mile? It had manual release valves in it, with no way to hold the release lever up (as on some narrow frame tractors). So if it were towed, it was probably without the relief valves "relieving." What's your best guess? How quickly would something like this happen?

Given that the slipper jammed against the case side and cracked it, it was probably moving pretty good. I expect it came to a screeching halt at that point.
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Old 11-05-2013, 01:43 PM
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How far would you have had to tow this tractor to cause this kind of damage? A 100 feet? A mile? It had manual release valves in it, with no way to hold the release lever up (as on some narrow frame tractors). So if it were towed, it was probably without the relief valves "relieving." What's your best guess? How quickly would something like this happen?

Given that the slipper jammed against the case side and cracked it, it was probably moving pretty good. I expect it came to a screeching halt at that point.
I can't answer how far but I agree that when it failed the rear tires stopped turning. I trust that you didn't do it.
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  #39  
Old 11-05-2013, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by sawdustdad View Post
How far would you have had to tow this tractor to cause this kind of damage? A 100 feet? A mile? It had manual release valves in it, with no way to hold the release lever up (as on some narrow frame tractors). So if it were towed, it was probably without the relief valves "relieving." What's your best guess? How quickly would something like this happen?

Given that the slipper jammed against the case side and cracked it, it was probably moving pretty good. I expect it came to a screeching halt at that point.
It's not how far...... it's how FAST. You could probably tow it a quarter mile without damage, if you just crept along. Just like running a motor without oil. If it's idling, it will take longer for it to lock up than if it was running WOT.
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  #40  
Old 11-05-2013, 03:12 PM
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I can't answer how far but I agree that when it failed the rear tires stopped turning. I trust that you didn't do it.
No, I didn't do it.

I bought this parts 1450 to get the fenders for my 148 project. It had no engine, steering column or wheel, or hood/side panels and a locked up rear end.

I had no intention of fixing the tractor at the time, but with the frame sitting there in the garage, looking forlorn, so sad, I decided to try to bring it back from parts I had around. Looking at it now, it's definitely not an economical endeavor as I can buy a working 1450 for $500. it will cost a lot more than that to fix this.

I'm torn between the challenge of finding parts and making a complete tractor and the rational approach of going out and buying a running tractor. On the other hand, what's the fun in just buying one?

Today I picked up a newly overhauled but never run K301 out of a 1250. bored .010 over, new piston, valves, rings, etc. Complete engine except for regulator, muffler and muffler box. Guy was building it for his 1250 and lost interest. So now it's mine. Looks good, short block is assembled, but the external parts are in a box. PTO is there, too. But no mounting rails.

I have an appointment to pick up a working ported hydrostat on Nov 12, as well as a steering column and wheel. I think I have the front grill castings I can use.

So do I put the new engine in my smoking 1450 mower and give that to my daughter or do I build this one for her and then overhaul the engine in the 1450 mower? Decisions! Decisions!
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