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  #31  
Old 03-03-2010, 06:37 PM
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T-Mo T-Mo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff122 View Post
This is quite an informative thread. Is the issue the fact that store bought ones are flimsy? Or is it the challenge of building one? Anyone see a problem with buying a Brinly either new or used and beefing it up?
New ones, as well as used ones, are still available. I've seen some on one or two of our sponsor's websites. Prices aren't too bad, but as noted, they could use some strengthening. Also, for those who like to make their own, why not?

Check CC Specialties - they have them for $165. http://ccspecialties.org/3points_sleevehitches.html
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  #32  
Old 03-04-2010, 07:21 AM
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JayBrd - I think ther's a "Y" shaped one on ebay right now.
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  #33  
Old 03-29-2010, 02:41 AM
rwire125 rwire125 is offline
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T-MO
Ive used your basic designe fo mine but used 1/2'' insted of the 3/8 and got to try it out yesterday and had no problems with it being square ill post some pictures soon as its getting a paint job now and I fabed up the the lift assambly as well
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  #34  
Old 03-31-2010, 12:31 PM
rwire125 rwire125 is offline
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just a few pictures of my hitch,lower mount and lift





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  #35  
Old 03-31-2010, 08:22 PM
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Mountain Heritage Mountain Heritage is offline
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That is one HECK of a nice tractor ya got there rewire! LOVE the rear ags, what size and name brand are they? Did they fit right on the stock rims? Great job on the sleeve hitch too. You painting it up red like the tractor when the time comes? How thick of flat stock did you use??

Dumb question.....the bolts you use to bolt on the bottom "U" bracket at the bottom of the transfer case/tranny....are you guys using the same stock bolts or are you having to buy new longer ones? If so is a grade 5 bolt okay or does it need to be grade 8? Are you lucky enough to get the bolts out without having to replace the gasket on the rear cover? I am assuming so, but just asking. I see no real reason to remove the entire rear cover, but who the heck knows anymore??
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  #36  
Old 03-31-2010, 10:02 PM
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Longer bolts are required. Grade 5 is fine.
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  #37  
Old 04-01-2010, 04:17 AM
rwire125 rwire125 is offline
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Matt is correct, I used 1/2'' cold rolled steel so used 1/2'' longer grade 5 bolts and just removing the btm 3 had no leaks so was good there. next is to run a a ear up to the lower axel bolt on each side for even more strength on the sheve mount or u bracket, but really need to get the tiller going, the rears are 26'' true powers and stock rims, was thinking of painting the lift black? also need to get red of the chains and make the side plates for down pressure. thanks for your comits mountain, ive got her just about the way i want it still need a blower and have an 18mag to get rebuilt yet
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  #38  
Old 07-21-2010, 07:41 AM
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Nice tractor, nice work on the sleeve adapter.

It's been a while I know, but I finally got my sleeve adapter made. Other things got in the way and I wasn't able, nor had the time to work on this. I will post pictures of it when I get batteries in my digital camera.

Now the helper spring project will be my next thing that I want to build. Then maybe a back blade.
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  #39  
Old 07-23-2010, 07:37 PM
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Thanks to All! This is going to be interesting! Now I could use a picture of how the lift arm goes up under the tractor frame....maybe to the rockshaft? I dont believe I will be lifting the disk-gang off the ground, but setting the depth? Anyway, I'll be taking some picts of what we come up with. Maybe a turnbuckel insted of the liftarm if we cant figure it out before I leave by7:30 in the am. Thanks Terry also.
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  #40  
Old 07-23-2010, 09:28 PM
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Never mind, found all the info. I need! Thanks again!
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