149 not starting

[Mr Bob]

Went down in the garage last night. Took the S/G off my work tractor and took off the end plate. Insides looked about the same as the other S/G. Brushes were worn about the same length as the other S/G. Put the S/G from the work tractor on the tractor I am refurbishing.This S/G starts the work tractor easily and it would not roll past the compression stroke on the refurbished tractor. Rolled the crankshaft back from the compression stroke and it still would not go past the compression stroke. This engine has been rebuilt at some point in time as it has a "10" over piston in it. I wonder if they could have shaved the head while being overhauled, thus causing the blown head gasket. I am lost as to what needs to be done. I have been starting it by holding the 2 buttons on top of the relief valves down to reduce the starting pressure. When the tractor starts the wheels do not turn. I have to move the forward reverse lever quite a ways forward before the wheels start to move. I had it up on stands at that time. The tractor wheels are on the ground now. Thanks for baring with me and have a great day.
Bob

[ol'George]

You might want to investigate your battery, and associated cables , also check engine ground to
chassis, if so equipped.
You would have to mill a lot off the head to increase the compression to a point it causes problems with starting.
I always felt .040 was a good amount to see an increase in power and snappy-ness of throttle.
Anymore than that you start to shroud the valves or they hit the head.
You could run a comparative compression check between the 2 engines if you feel that is the problem.

[Terry C]

Originally Posted by Mr Bob

Went down in the garage last night. Took the S/G off my work tractor and took off the end plate. Insides looked about the same as the other S/G. Brushes were worn about the same length as the other S/G. Put the S/G from the work tractor on the tractor I am refurbishing.This S/G starts the work tractor easily and it would not roll past the compression stroke on the refurbished tractor. Rolled the crankshaft back from the compression stroke and it still would not go past the compression stroke. This engine has been rebuilt at some point in time as it has a "10" over piston in it. I wonder if they could have shaved the head while being overhauled, thus causing the blown head gasket. I am lost as to what needs to be done. I have been starting it by holding the 2 buttons on top of the relief valves down to reduce the starting pressure. When the tractor starts the wheels do not turn. I have to move the forward reverse lever quite a ways forward before the wheels start to move. I had it up on stands at that time. The tractor wheels are on the ground now. Thanks for baring with me and have a great day.
Bob

Are you saying by holding the relief valves down the engine will start normal?
How cold is it when this is going on?

[Yosemite Sam]

Originally Posted by Terry C

Are you saying by holding the relief valves down the engine will start normal?
How cold is it when this is going on?

This sounds like you need to isolate the problem before you can proceed.

If it were me, I would try jump starting the tractor from my truck. Attach the pos jumper cable to the "A" terminal on the S/G, attach the other end of the jumper cables to the truck and then attach the neg cable to a known good ground on the tractor (I normally use one of the S/G mounting bolts).

If this spins the engine over, you may have a problem with wiring or connections, if it does not spin over, I would unbolt the drive hub from the engine and see if the S/G spins the engine.

Kinda sounds like the hydro linkage is out of adjustment causing the S/G to not only spin the engine but also spin the engaged transmission as well.

[john hall]

How about pulling the driveshaft out? Shouldn't be that bad if I'm thinking right, this one has a tunnel cover, yes??? Maybe dropping the PTO belt also? Yeah if something is loading the engine from the get-go, its gonna be a bear to crank.

[Mr Bob]

I know I am wearing this thread out but here I go again. Let me start by saying that I am not the brightest bulb around. You all probably know that by now. I am pushing the pins down on the relief valves as I am trying to start tractor. Does this not release all the pressure from the pump? If it doesn't, this is probably my problem. I am almost sure I did not find true neutral when I adjusted the sliding part held by 2 bolts. When I stopped the tires by pressing the brake, the tires did not start rolling again with throttle at almost full open. The metal piece that you adjust was at full top. When I adjusted my other tractor, the metal adjustment was tapped almost half way down. Will check that adjustment again if the tractor will start and re-adjust if necessary. If that doesn't help I will remove the drive shaft and see if that helps the problem. Thanks for every one's help and advise. I will keep you posted as I work on it. Have a great day.
Bob