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  #31  
Old 02-01-2015, 02:40 PM
NCDiesel NCDiesel is offline
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If I had just had the patience to read a little further into the manual I would have seen what to do. A little later in the manual they say to put the thicker one against the block.

By the way, to get _any_ end play at all, I had to use all three thickness gaskets(in addition to what I am calling the "normal" one) - just the one they implied would be right was not enough. Even with all three, I didn't have the whole .010 they recommend. Probably .008" I could get my .009 in there but it was way too snug. I'm hoping that's good enough -cause I am moving on with the rest!

Thanks again!
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  #32  
Old 02-01-2015, 02:57 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Should be fine. No pre-load is the big deal, but it needs room for expansion.

Are you sure your bearings are bottomed out on the crank? Just asking to be sure.
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  #33  
Old 02-02-2015, 02:14 PM
NCDiesel NCDiesel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Should be fine. No pre-load is the big deal, but it needs room for expansion.

Are you sure your bearings are bottomed out on the crank? Just asking to be sure.
I did double check that. After two gaskets weren't enough - I figured something might be amiss. But I could not find anything. The PTO end of the crank looks shouldered down against a bearing that is fully seated. The bearing in the plate was installed after the plate was warmed in the oven, so it went in easily and went in all the way without fuss.

I finished all the way through the piston, rings, and rod (hole towards camshaft). I did have trouble with the front and rear crankshaft seals. What do you folks use to drive them? I never could find a pipe in my shop that was the right size. One chunk of PVC pipe was pretty close for the flywheel side , but not the other side. I really struggled to keep them driven straight and true.

Thanks once again for everyone's help,
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  #34  
Old 02-02-2015, 10:50 PM
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bocephus1991 bocephus1991 is offline
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The seals, well honestly I used what I've always used to drive seals with. A punch! Lol I've never had a problem doing it like that, patience is key though. Put some oil on the rubber part of the seal work it as far down as you can by hand. Then tap gently around the seal evenly.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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