1872 - Standard SGT rear end...

[Methos]

Originally Posted by j.m.jackson

So I had time last night to work on the driveshaft and the rear end, after purchasing a digital veneer caliper so I can measure the backlash with the depth finder against the back cover plate bolted on sideways, and the top tooth of the diff gear. Not the best way, but I got it within 0.005, with the spec being 0.003 to 0.008. Hopefully the parts fairy will come soon and drop off some goodies like gaskets. Should I use anything on the gaskets, or should they be installed dry?

The driveshaft was worn about 3/16th of an inch on one side where it goes into the couple on the engine side. It had to be vibrating terribly for a long time for it to wear like it was. I welded it up, and then ground it back down. Not perfect, but it's a good tight fit in the bronze bushing on the engine end.

This was an internal brake CI rear, but I didn't have to do any grinding in the case to get the larger super reduction gear in. I did have to take the carrier apart and reassemble it inside the case, tho, as it wouldn't fit through the opening it the back without doing so.

You can see where the driveshaft exited the motor end of the coupler. The hydro end is uglier, with a broken ear on it's coupler.

I've got a front coupler if you haven't ordered one yet. PM your adress and I'll send it to you. It does need a new bushing.

[j.m.jackson]

That was in my parts order, I appreciate the offer tho. Just send one of those useless splined rear super hydro couplers.... <grin>

[Methos]

Originally Posted by j.m.jackson

That was in my parts order, I appreciate the offer tho. Just send one of those useless splined rear super hydro couplers.... <grin>

I feel your pain on those breaking!

[j.m.jackson]

Any recommendations on installing the gaskets? Should they be installed dry, or has someone had better luck using something with them to result in a dry diff case?

[Methos]

Originally Posted by j.m.jackson

Any recommendations on installing the gaskets? Should they be installed dry, or has someone had better luck using something with them to result in a dry diff case?

Should be installed dry.

[j.m.jackson]

Duke,

I'll take your word on that.

I've got a pile of gaskets here to install tommorow-ish (maybe). And an order to place to get the rest of the driveline parts. I found my stash of 723-3014 filters in the basement, so that'll save a few bucks.

On the Mag 18 engine, how does the cooling fan screen attach to the cooling fan? Mine is in pieces on the ground with no apparent attachment method.

Also, the bracket that holds the power steering column to the frame is broken in half. I'm not sure if that's from the driveline coming off the engine, or just the vibration from the shaft being way out of balance for a while. Now I get to pull the column and weld that back up too. I'll post pictures of that carnage tomorrow.

I hope the MAG18 didn't suffer any damage internally from the driveshaft being off center and shaking it to death.

Still glad I took yall's suggested path of moving the AL guts to the CI rear.

How do you like the hood hinges? Nice job by the PO when the front cast AL crossmember on the hood broke....

[j.m.jackson]

Added pictures above.

[Methos]

Originally Posted by j.m.jackson

Added pictures above.

Enjoying the pics! keep them coming!

[j.m.jackson]

Obviously, the PO found the breaking points of the rubber couplers. They were trashed on both ends.

[Methos]

Originally Posted by j.m.jackson

Obviously, the PO found the breaking points of the rubber couplers. They were trashed on both ends.

I've found those as well! Once the drive shaft comes out nothing is going to stop it.