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#32
02-13-2012, 07:14 PM
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Don
It was nice chatting with you call anytime you get stuck. Glad I was able to help. Sam We talked about where hes been and where he was. I get your post and this post confused, as they are heading in the same direction. Anyway he had mentioned the emulsion tube, and a possible blockage. So I took one apart that I had, the smell of the green gas took my breath away, and the tube on mine was open. So what ever was lodged dislodged, relodged, in all the cleanings seemed to get stuck there. Don will better tell the story as hes there looking at the carb. 
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#33
02-13-2012, 08:23 PM
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Guys,
I soaked my carb over night in Dawn dish washing liquid and could not believe the stuff that came out of it even though I had previously soaked it in parts dip cleaner. My line from the tank was disintegrating on the inside. I pulled the fenders, the tank and all the lines. I am cleaning everything installing new lines and fittings. The local Cub dealer let me use his sonic tank to clean my carb but my plan now is to order a new one. While the tractor is torn apart Im servicing everything and plan a quick repaint to cover some bad spots. This is going to set me back several hundred but its cheaper than buying a new mower and Im kinda fond of this one.
__________________
Don Smith https://www.facebook.com/SouthernKentuckyCubCadetClub IH 982D aka "The Big Red Smoker" BRS w/3pt hitch CC 1572 aka "The Big Yellow Smoker" BYS w/3pt hitch-PTO Brinly Cat 0 3pt plow-Brinly sleeve hitch plow Custom Hydraulic lift disc-Haban Blade-Brinly Cultivators Cub Cadet lawn trailer and lawn sweeper
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#34
02-14-2012, 07:50 AM
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The new crapahol gas eats gas line. I'm replacing the fuel lines in all 3 Supers I'm working on and flushing the tanks. Nasty what I'm seeing. Starting to put the 1882 back together now with the new CH22. Had to take half the tractor apart to fix a loose shift lever but in the long run it was good that I did. The CV joint for the steering had never been greased and it needed a good cleaning and some new grease. Tractor is going to be a nice one once it's done. Then it will be the 2284's turn for a refurbish job. After they are done I'll get back to the CH22 that came out of the 2284 and sort it out.
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#35
02-14-2012, 07:18 PM
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Great job Don and Sam, and thank you Vince for helping these guys.
 As you guys know my Dad and I have a 2086 and a 2084 and I think I will be checking the fuel lines on both of them also, thanks for the heads up guys.
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102-P Narrow tires no creeper--42inch deck and IH blade. 102-D Wide tires,creeper,headlights--42inch deck and CW36 snow thrower. 1997-2086 Super with 3 point hitch and all the bells and whistles. 1961-PTE-"O", needs lots of work. 2072-Repowered with a ch18, Woods tractor. 149 with my Dad. 44" deck and QA36A. #9-70 with weights and sleeve hitch. #10-149 with a 38inch deck. 2015 Kubota BX 2670.
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#36
02-17-2012, 06:02 PM
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Got a chance to day to pull the blower housing off one of the new CH22's to compare it to the one that I removed from the 2284. The new one does not have the SAM module. Manifold is different, flywheel is different but it looks like it should work OK with the coils for a non SAM engine. I'm going to pull the coils from the CH18 in the organ diner 2185 I just picked up and see if they will work before I run out and buy new ones.
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#37
02-19-2012, 08:54 AM
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Sam
They should work. Im thinking on the next command rebuild I do Im going to put a diode in line to prevent that. In Dannys I found that the coil that has the conector on it that grounds out both coils was bad. In turns shorted that one out and wouldnt let the other fire. Let me know when your done parting the doner eng, I could use some internal parts for the 18 threw 22.
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#38
02-19-2012, 11:43 AM
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Vin
The CH18 from the 2185 organ donor runs fine so it's probably going to end up in a roller at some point. I'm only going to borrow parts from it for testing on the CH22. Not sure but I think the wiring harness has diodes already built in. Sam
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#40
02-20-2012, 08:43 PM
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Update and new question
Here is the latest update. The CH22 is finally running again
 but you will never guess the final fix. First let me say I had multiple issues. First the tank lines were disintegrating sending junk all through the fuel system. So after several carb rebuilds and new lines I still had the same start and die issue. I felt that possibly it was ignition or a safety switch but I couldn't put my finger on it. I called my dad and had him come over and just double check everything. After he went through everything I had already checked we still had the same issue. While taking a break Dad was messing with the ignition switch comparing it to his 1572 he just bought. We decided to double check the seat switches and removed the jumper wire and she fired right up! Neither of us thought this was right so we re-installed the jumper and it still ran. Scratching our heads we went back over what we had done and decided it was the ignition switch. We removed the switch and it was corroded badly. After a good cleaning on the switch and plug the tractor starts and runs every time. Apparently the switch was only making partial contact and shorting on the run side. So thanks to a little bit if luck the problem seems to be fixed. Also thanks to my curious Dad LOL. Sam and Vince maybe we will get these cyclops figured out yet.New Question How do you test the fuel gauge? I know my light works just want to test the tank gauge while its apart.
__________________
Don Smith https://www.facebook.com/SouthernKentuckyCubCadetClub IH 982D aka "The Big Red Smoker" BRS w/3pt hitch CC 1572 aka "The Big Yellow Smoker" BYS w/3pt hitch-PTO Brinly Cat 0 3pt plow-Brinly sleeve hitch plow Custom Hydraulic lift disc-Haban Blade-Brinly Cultivators Cub Cadet lawn trailer and lawn sweeper
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