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  #31  
Old 12-21-2013, 10:04 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmbadgley View Post
aldiesel stated the GOVERNED speed was low. By adjusting the throttle cable will not change the governed speed. The maximum governed speed is controlled by the fly weights on the governor.

If the throttle cable is not adjusted correctly the engine may not be allowed come up to the speed that would kick the governor. However I have seen cases where the linkage was not set correctly and that will indeed change the governed speed up or down.
No, maximum governed speed is controlled by the tension on the governor spring, not the weight of the flyweights. The weight of the flyweights is proportional to the size of the spring. High idle, no load, is set by the throttle stop "bar" on the engine mounted throttle lever. The linkage on the governor arm and throttle arm controls sensitivity. I really think he was referring to "high idle, no load".
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  #32  
Old 12-21-2013, 11:19 PM
aldiesel aldiesel is offline
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well let me tell you what i did up to this point... found a link to a cab gov adjustment http://cubfaq.com/govadjust.html and what i did was loosen the pinch bolt rotate the gov shaft CCW and pull the arm away from the carb this did absolutely nothing for the speed
i dropped one hole on the arm with the spring and i got 3650 rpms no load but now a have a light surge in the rpms
should i change the spring location on the control bracket or adjust the rod length at the top of the carb??
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  #33  
Old 12-22-2013, 01:55 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by aldiesel View Post
well let me tell you what i did up to this point... found a link to a cab gov adjustment http://cubfaq.com/govadjust.html and what i did was loosen the pinch bolt rotate the gov shaft CCW and pull the arm away from the carb this did absolutely nothing for the speed
i dropped one hole on the arm with the spring and i got 3650 rpms no load but now a have a light surge in the rpms
should i change the spring location on the control bracket or adjust the rod length at the top of the carb??
Ok. I know you probably just read over what was posted, but just going to say it again, in case you missed it. I also notice your not really a new member, so you should already know.... In the "Technical" section, under "Tractors" go download the "K" series service manual. It will tell you, how to adjust the governor, throttle linkage, high and low idle, and anything else you want to.
Just to help you out a little.... You did adjust the governor correctly. No, doing that won't change the speed. I'll say this again. Moving the linkage to different holes won't either. That just changes the sensitivity of the governor. To adjust the "High idle no load" you move the throttle stop. No, do not adjust the rod at the top of the carb. That will do nothing except throw off all adjustments you already made. TBH, I don't know why that is even adjustable. Really I think it is only threaded so that the ball and socket joint can be replaced. It does nothing for tuning.

You are kind of making a habit on this thread of asking questions that have been answered within the body of the thread. Please read through to make sure you aren't asking a question that has already been answered.
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  #34  
Old 12-22-2013, 04:40 AM
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macman81 macman81 is offline
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This surge you mention could be a lean fuel mixture. Try pulling out choke slightly if it goes away turn the main fuel screw out 1/8-1/4 turn should go away.
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  #35  
Old 12-22-2013, 09:56 AM
gmbadgley gmbadgley is offline
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OK guys let's end this, If he can get 3650 rpm out of it he is above the rated HP RPM.

We ALL know that a few hundred RPM one way or the other is not going to make much if any difference in performance. This is becoming more of a textbook question rather than real life.
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  #36  
Old 12-22-2013, 12:25 PM
aldiesel aldiesel is offline
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I agree with both gmbadgley and J-Mech i have reread the post did looked around the best that i could clicking on every post that even mentions a implement speed lets face it i'd be here all day and when i reopened to this post i did say i did mean to beat a dead horse.
But in my defence i may be ignorant to simple skills as to setting up a garden tractors governed speed and what not but if anyone else would look back i got several different answers to the same question i am just trying to figure out what works for me that's all.
You say changing the linkage will not change the speed but i found out first hand it did work for me weather it is the proper way i don't know maybe it was just holding the throttle close i DO NOT know but it did change by 600 rpm's now i have a surge i was asking about that not the governed speed.
Thank you all for all your help and all the suggestions you have made i will figure the rest out myself
Thanks Again
Tony
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  #37  
Old 12-22-2013, 05:03 PM
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macman81 macman81 is offline
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Did you try my suggestion about correcting the surge? Let me know if that doesn't help.
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1940 farmall H, Little Wonder 2 bottom plow, 1954 IH Fridge, 1948 IH 158 chest freezer.
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  #38  
Old 12-22-2013, 11:11 PM
aldiesel aldiesel is offline
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Yes macman81 i did and it seemed to help alot but still a bit there seems to smooth out if left at high idle no load did the choke as you said then adjusted crarb.
Think i'm gonna wait for the pulley and the next snow to see what happens.
But as you said it was off 600 rpms so i can see just that making a big differents fine tuning i got it to run 3640 no load with the blower running and rpms stable it stayis 3590 3620
Thanks Again
Tony
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  #39  
Old 12-26-2013, 04:14 PM
782CC 782CC is offline
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Used my QA42A for the first time on my 782. So far not impressed with a 4 inch pulley. I had modified a Case hi-cast 38 inch on a MTD GT that did not care wet or dry snow. Wet (20-30ft) tossed better than dry which made me curious about all the posts on thrower or blower. This guy barely gets snow over the side. Bought an adjustable from grainger for the next time. It can go down to 3 inches.

Will note the belt sits very low in the engine pulley so appears quite worn and hurts my gearing. going wider than 21/32 too. Sure wish a 6 inch PTO pulley was easy to do.
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  #40  
Old 12-27-2013, 12:46 AM
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OldSkull OldSkull is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 782CC View Post
Used my QA42A for the first time on my 782. So far not impressed with a 4 inch pulley. I had modified a Case hi-cast 38 inch on a MTD GT that did not care wet or dry snow. Wet (20-30ft) tossed better than dry which made me curious about all the posts on thrower or blower. This guy barely gets snow over the side. Bought an adjustable from grainger for the next time. It can go down to 3 inches.

Will note the belt sits very low in the engine pulley so appears quite worn and hurts my gearing. going wider than 21/32 too. Sure wish a 6 inch PTO pulley was easy to do.
Just try mine for the fourth time with a 3 1/2 inch pulley! My thrower broke again! I cant believe it! So far the belt explode, the front shaft disconnect, the chain master link broke and now the rotor don't move! The pulley move, the drive shaft move, the chain is perfect and well lube! The small sprocket don't turn, I don't know what hold that sprocket on the shaft yet but it's number one suspect on my list...

Now the way I see it, this POS may never work or get finally ready next SUMMER!
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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