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  #31  
Old 08-30-2014, 07:46 AM
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thanks guys I think im gonna adjust the valves the exhaust seems a little loose gives a tap when cold then it goes away hot, need some clutch adjustments I think also shouldn't it disengage at half pedal or was that the quietlines ? I had a 122 but I cant remember my dad might though. ill be doing an oil change even though it looks like new oil, ill check the rear end fluid and does the creeper drive have a separate type of fluid it looks like it does. What do you guys use im going to probably use 10w 30 in the engine the tranny was the same right ? I can always look in my manuals I got also.
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1975 cub cadet 1100 440 Polaris engine
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  #32  
Old 08-30-2014, 09:02 AM
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The clutch should be adjusted so that there is about 1/16" free play between the throwout bearing and the release arm. That keeps the bearing from spinning when the clutch is engaged.

As for engine oil, Kohler recommends straight 30W above freezing and 10w30 below. The gear drive rear ends can use 30W oil or Hytran.
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1964 Model 100 w/ K301 12hp and custom hydraulics
1972 Model 149 turned 129 w/ K301 12hp, triple hydraulics, 66 series clone
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  #33  
Old 08-30-2014, 09:11 PM
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well guys got it out in the sun for some pictures looks great will be doing the oil here soon and the clutch adjusting, I adjusted the valves and there still a tap it runs great actually better the nit did but you can still here a tap not sure what that's about. Heres some pics to look at
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1981 cub cadet 682
1975 cub cadet 1100 440 Polaris engine
1966 cub cadet 122
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  #34  
Old 08-30-2014, 09:14 PM
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Did you put it back together with rusty bolts or is that my imagination?
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Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965
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  #35  
Old 08-31-2014, 07:47 PM
jcsmith jcsmith is offline
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That looks sweet. One question tho, what is on the rear of the S/G? Well 2 questions really, Did you re-use hardware? I'm re-using as much of the original hardware as possible on my 104 because I like the IH stamp. I know some here say get new, but I like re-using what I can.

I know it is only original once, but I think you made the right decision on this one. Some do deserve to be left alone tho. Nice work.

Chris
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  #36  
Old 08-31-2014, 09:16 PM
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I wire wheel the rusty bolts so they are clean but still have there brown luster, I use as many original bolts as well, ill be doing some touch ups cause I have some scratches here and there, I wait till its all together then paint the bolts on the tractor cause if you do it first they just end up flaking and getting scratched wjere the socket touches them and you have to repaint then anyway . the thing on the back of the S/G is a amp meter that someone rigged up, probably the old ladies husband and it works great looks pretty old I guess its better then putting a hole in the dash and I like it there cause your always looking that way when mowing or at least I do. to my last post I did adjust the clutch and it is so much nicer to drive now, only thing I don't like is my wallet digs into my leg when sitting on the seat im not really that fat lol must be the small seat.
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1975 cub cadet 1100 440 Polaris engine
1966 cub cadet 122
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  #37  
Old 08-31-2014, 09:19 PM
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Here is that amp meter
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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