The Fun Begins - Page 4

Group_44 · #31 05-10-2015, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

I still don't like tapping the valve, but it may work. If you are going to try that, I'd suggest going to a o-ring face seal and not pipe.... but I'd have to scour the taps in the tool books and see where to even get that thread tap.

Good going, really! Just keep trying.

The o ring face seal is what Sam has suggested so if we try it that is the way we will go. The idea is to machine the correct surface to accept the o ring. As far as the threads from my research it is a straight tap with no taper, not in your everyday tap set but available from McMaster Carr.

J-Mech · #32 05-10-2015, 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Group_44

The o ring face seal is what Sam has suggested so if we try it that is the way we will go. The idea is to machine the correct surface to accept the o ring. As far as the threads from my research it is a straight tap with no taper, not in your everyday tap set but available from McMaster Carr.

Sorry, I misunderstood. I thought that it was suggested to go to NPT.

I agree. Off the top of my head, I didn't know if face seal was regular thread, or special. Yes, a bottom hole tap would work fine.

gdheck · #33 05-10-2015, 04:10 PM

Guys,
I think I have a better solution than tapping it for a pipe thread. If there is enough material around the hole to tap it, there is enough material to bore 1/16" out of the hole and o-ring counterbore and just use a 3/8" push to connect fitting. I do think I would use the push to connect fitting with the longer end than the GM fitting. Then it could be cut to the proper length, which is a little longer than the GM.

I don't mean any disrespect to the members here by this, but I'm also suggesting this mod. because some people have trouble tapping a hole straight and getting a pipe thread the correct depth. At worst, this could ruin a valve that is now NLA. I'm included in the straightness group myself. I do all my tapping on the lathe, mill, etc., where I can have a center hold the tap straight or use a tapping head. If you took them to a machine shop, they shouldn't be expensive to have it modified if you already have the valve apart and cleaned. With a drawing of the new hole and counterbore size provided to the machinist, they should all be interchangeable with other valves modified the same way.

gdheck · #34 05-10-2015, 04:21 PM

I forgot, the o-ring counterbore is probably the correct size already. The hole itself would just need enlarged. That could be done with 2 sizes of reamers. It's a little much to take out with 1 reamer size.

Sam Mac · #35 05-10-2015, 06:02 PM

Good idea. Sometimes the easy way escapes us. Thoughts and comments guys?

PGHsteelworker · #36 05-11-2015, 08:40 AM

Cut the tube and use either a hydraulic compression fitting or flare it and use a flare connection, both will work just fine. I have the compression fitting on both of my supers right now with no problems.

J-Mech · #37 05-11-2015, 09:00 AM

I like gdheck's idea. If it doesn't work, you can always just bore and tap it and go the other route.

Quote:

Originally Posted by PGHsteelworker

Cut the tube and use either a hydraulic compression fitting or flare it and use a flare connection, both will work just fine. I have the compression fitting on both of my supers right now with no problems.

That's fine if that's how you want to repair. Personally, I don't trust those fittings, because I've had them leak. Plus, if your going for a "came from the factory" look, that's not the way.

PGHsteelworker · #38 05-11-2015, 09:12 AM

Cub cadet cyclops tractors use the flared fittings from the factory. Maybe you aren't installing them correctly.

J-Mech · #39 05-11-2015, 09:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PGHsteelworker

Cub cadet cyclops tractors use the flared fittings from the factory. Maybe you aren't installing them correctly.

I'm talking about compression fittings, not flared.

And I'm pretty well versed in hydraulics..... I know how to install a fitting.

gdheck · #40 05-11-2015, 12:56 PM

If you do enlarge the hole to use a 3/8" push to connect fitting and for some reason decide to go to a threaded fitting, you will have to go to a 1/4" pipe thread since the tap drill size for 1/8" pipe is 1/32" smaller than the 3/8" push to connect.

Before anyone does taps one 1/4" pipe, make sure there is enough material in the valve body or it is ruined.