Kohler k241a Rebuild - Page 4

olds45512 · #31 01-30-2016, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mickb72

Wow, a person who rebuilds Fords select o speeds! I've read those guys are few and far between. Most people are afraid of them. What's a common problem and maybe a repair cost? Keep up the good work. Mike

Yea were about it when it comes to select o speeds, we've had new Holland dealers and other guys who claim to rebuild them send them to us torn apart in a box because they can't put them back together. We actually have 2 here right now that came from 2 different dealers that dug into them and realized they were in over there head.

i believe the rebuilds start at $1500 plus parts but don't quote me on that.

Merk · #32 01-31-2016, 01:22 PM

Final wash...All my engines are washed with soap and hot water.

You will be amazed how much metal fines you will find after a good wash.

Bigsauce · #33 02-01-2016, 07:12 PM

Update:

I took the camshaft and governor gear out. The governor was metal so I'm going to inspect it and probably reuse it. Should I take the pto side crankshaft bearings, and the governor cross shaft out since the blocks going to be cleaned? I've read that its probably better to just put a new governor cross shaft in? The machine shop I'm taking the block to says they do a thermoclean, if anyone is familiar with that. I'm going to have the following done at the machine shop: thermoclean, overbore/ hone, check crank for wear, check valve seats, check valve guide clearances, check block/head mating surface for flatness, and possibly having the exhaust tapped so i can bolt on an exhaust flange... Am I forgetting anything else I should have checked/done at the machine shop? Also, I'm going to rebuild the PTO, from what I've read its a type a. I'd also like to sand blast and repaint it before reassembly

J-Mech · #34 02-01-2016, 07:28 PM

Sandblasting the block won't be necessary. It will come back from the shop nice and clean with no paint on it. If the shop is like mine, it will have primer of some type on it also. You should ask before hand. I have told mine not to paint them anymore. (I want to use a different paint.) Yes, remove the bearings. Buy new valves, don't try to grind the old. They are cheap, and it's worth it. Don't tap the exhaust holes and mount a flange. It won't hold, nor will it seal. Use a pipe, just like it came from the factory and adapt your muffler to it. It's a much better way to go. If necessary, screw a pipe in and weld a flange to it. Don't try to just bolt a flange mount to the block.

Bigsauce · #35 02-01-2016, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Sandblasting the block won't be necessary. It will come back from the shop nice and clean with no paint on it. If the shop is like mine, it will have primer of some type on it also. You should ask before hand. I have told mine not to paint them anymore. (I want to use a different paint.) Yes, remove the bearings. Buy new valves, don't try to grind the old. They are cheap, and it's worth it. Don't tap the exhaust holes and mount a flange. It won't hold, nor will it seal. Use a pipe, just like it came from the factory and adapt your muffler to it. It's a much better way to go. If necessary, screw a pipe in and weld a flange to it. Don't try to just bolt a flange mount to the block.

Thanks, I'll go that route with the exhaust, I'm just concerned the threads on the exhaust may be too brittle due to rust.

J-Mech · #36 02-01-2016, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigsauce

Thanks, I'll go that route with the exhaust, I'm just concerned the threads on the exhaust may be too brittle due to rust.

Being that it is pipe thread in cast iron, it will surprise you. I've seen a few that were so nasty I didn't think they would hold, and they did, just fine.

Bigsauce · #37 02-02-2016, 11:48 AM

I'm going to be taking the block and crank over to the machine shop this week. Should I remove the governor cross shaft or is it fine to leave it in the block? Also, I've read that its a good idea to replace the governor cross shaft when rebuilding the block should I go that route or is it ok to reuse in your experience? Lastly I am going to order parts for my pto and begin rebuilding it. I've got it apart and it seems I'm going to need a standard rebuild kit plus a thrust button. The screws/nuts that go through are pretty rusty and I want to replace them, thing is I've never seen them before. Can similar screws/bolts be found at a hardware store, if so does anyone know the specs? Once again thanks for all the help guys!

J-Mech · #38 02-02-2016, 12:37 PM

Yes, remove the governor cross shaft. Remove ALL parts/pieces from the block before machining. Only exception would be if it has a freeze plug in the location for the later style dipstick. You can leave that in. Leave the valve guides. Outside of that...... take everything else off.

Yes, you can reuse the cross shaft as long as it doesn't look damaged.

On the PTO: You may be able to source the screws elsewhere. FWIW, I would likely just get them from whoever you get the rebuild kit off of. I thought they were included, but it's been a long time since I ordered a mechanical clutch rebuild kit. All the machines that I use have electric. The older machines I have the PTO's are all fine on. They do have to have a low profile to clear the lever. The nuts on the back are jam nuts. They are about half as thick as a regular nut. So..... just make sure you get the right stuff.

Bigsauce · #39 02-04-2016, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Yes, remove the governor cross shaft. Remove ALL parts/pieces from the block before machining. Only exception would be if it has a freeze plug in the location for the later style dipstick. You can leave that in. Leave the valve guides. Outside of that...... take everything else off.

Yes, you can reuse the cross shaft as long as it doesn't look damaged.

On the PTO: You may be able to source the screws elsewhere. FWIW, I would likely just get them from whoever you get the rebuild kit off of. I thought they were included, but it's been a long time since I ordered a mechanical clutch rebuild kit. All the machines that I use have electric. The older machines I have the PTO's are all fine on. They do have to have a low profile to clear the lever. The nuts on the back are jam nuts. They are about half as thick as a regular nut. So..... just make sure you get the right stuff.

Alright, thanks I've got the cross shaft removed, it looks good but I might replace it for peace of mind. All that is left is the pto side crank bearing. I've tried tapping it out with a hammer and pvc pipe but that did nothing. Whats the best way to press the bearing out without a hydraulic press? or should I just let the machine shop press it out? I went to my local auto parts store to rent a tool out but didn't find anything that looked like it could do the job.

J-Mech · #40 02-04-2016, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigsauce

Alright, thanks I've got the cross shaft removed, it looks good but I might replace it for peace of mind. All that is left is the pto side crank bearing. I've tried tapping it out with a hammer and pvc pipe but that did nothing. Whats the best way to press the bearing out without a hydraulic press? or should I just let the machine shop press it out? I went to my local auto parts store to rent a tool out but didn't find anything that looked like it could do the job.

I knock them out with a hammer and a brass punch.