1811's turn in the shop - Page 4

john hall · #31 12-13-2016, 06:38 PM

Ordered up a bunch of deck parts yesterday along with a carb kit and a crank seal. Napa called me today to inform me that the seal is ODD, so odd that they had to order it from the manufacturer and freight was going to be expensive. (this is the same NAPA that had a master cylinder for my 40 year grain truck on the shelf this fall). When I told him what it fits he said no problem, we are a Kohler dealer--but he still had to order it.

Just as well, between shopping and getting together with family and cold weather, I ain't getting no shop time in anyway.

Terry C · #32 12-13-2016, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john hall

Ordered up a bunch of deck parts yesterday along with a carb kit and a crank seal. Napa called me today to inform me that the seal is ODD, so odd that they had to order it from the manufacturer and freight was going to be expensive. (this is the same NAPA that had a master cylinder for my 40 year grain truck on the shelf this fall). When I told him what it fits he said no problem, we are a Kohler dealer--but he still had to order it.

Just as well, between shopping and getting together with family and cold weather, I ain't getting no shop time in anyway.

Cold weather? You are funny! My forecast:High temp Sat 7deg. Low temp -16deg

john hall · #33 12-13-2016, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Terry C

Cold weather? You are funny! My forecast:High temp Sat 7deg. Low temp -16deg

Now you know us Southern boys got to turn some heat on if it ain't 60 deg in the shop!

john hall · #34 12-27-2016, 08:46 PM

Finally got some shop time today. Finished tearing the deck apart. The rust is far worse than I realized. Where the hangar brackets bolt is thinned out along the edge from pretty heavy corrosion. This allowed the deck to bow upward. I made a 1/4 x 3 plate to go under the deck that runs across both hanger brackets--had to remove the blade baffle for this (I'll put it back when I am done). Got a large steel block (12 x 8 x 3) that I put under the deck so I could hammer down the bowed area without kinking it somewhere else. Although the deck cover is missing, it looks like all the corrosion and rust occurred with the cover on. To begin used a hard grinding stone in a hand grinder followed by a different grinder with a flap wheel. Fortunately it was 70 deg today because this was certainly an outdoor job due to the mess. The deck is pretty bad regarding pitting, but it's the only 50C I have so I'm going for it. I thought about getting it sandblasted but think its too damaged for my friends blaster--he's set up to cut cemetery markers--probably too aggressive for my compromised sheet metal. I may still have him clean it up--gently. I've got a bit of welding to do where one of the wheel brackets cracked beside all its welds. When all repairs are made I'll finish cleaning and treat the areas with Rust-Mort, then spray can some primer and paint. Need to order some new decals.

I did get a the new gas gauge style cap put in today!

It occurred to me that when the float is halfway the gauge reads half full (empty). Sounds logical until you look at the tank and realize how irregularly shaped these things are!

You can run forever on a 1/2 tank, but when you hit 1/4 you better head for refill. Maybe one of you enterprising fellows that likes to think real hard can make a new guide with a variable helix that will truly indicate how much fuel is in the tank. Until then we'll head to the pump when it hits 1/4 tank.

New carb kit, crank seal, air filter, and clutch pedal switch are still in the box--along with all the deck pulleys and belt.

Oak · #35 12-27-2016, 09:36 PM

Looks good John. Yes, we are having some crazy weather here too. I think it was in the upper 60's today and it will be near 70 here tomorrow. I don't like cold weather.

If you didn't grind that "danger" sticker off in the 2nd picture could you take a close up pic of it? I need that decal for the Haban deck I'm doing and it is NLA. I'm going to see if I can get some made up.

john hall · #36 12-27-2016, 10:15 PM

NLA???

Yeah I ground it away. I just checked and the decals I found for a 50C appear to be for an IH built deck. Well that SUCKS! I'll start looking for replacement decals--I'll let you know what I find. If you can't do any better I'll email you the pic I do have. I know its not the greatest, I mainly took it so I would know where the decals went. Here is one other--yes I made it go away as well. I'll Look on my Haban and see if I put new decals on it, been so long ago I can't remember.

john hall · #37 01-01-2017, 09:01 AM

OK, worked on the tractor today and not the deck. Installed the PTO side seal. My old one was all crooked inside the bore--what gives?

There is not land for these to stop against, but you can drive them plenty deep, think I measured 3/4 of land, seal is about 3/8. The seal had been replaced before--guy used blue silicone on the outside. This time I put some anaerobic sealant on the OD--maybe it will help it sit still? I could see a slight ring in the block where the seal--probably the original--used to be. Didn't feel like it had spun in the housing but something sure left a mark, maybe more of a stain? I turned down/faced and old exhaust pipe off a Farmall M for an installation tool.

Looked under the belly for some reason and noticed the mesh debris screen was broke so pulled it off for repair. While at it I couldn't resist, had to try snugging up the steering. I don't know why I do it, unless the steering is horrible a slight movement of the cam follower is usually too much due to the wear. If I ever have it apart I'll address the cam follower wear then.

While doing all this that's when I saw the rockshaft.

Holy Cow is that thing worn where the pcs that lift the deck hook up!

Pins are dang near worn in 1/2 and into the clip pin holes. Looks like unhook the cylinder and drive out the 2 roll pins and it should slip apart? It looks like the fenders will have to come back off to get it out. I'm asking here guys--what am I not seeing and does this thing slip apart like talking about or is it a real bear?

Front wheels sounded like a roulette wheel--time to grease the bearings. I had to DRIVE the wheels off the spindles--rusted in place, go figure. I was able to take my needle injector for the grease gun and go thru the bore to get in the crack by the inner race of the bearing on the other side and pump them full of grease. Cleaned the spindles and got them put back together. Now that I know you can grease the wheels this way, I need to do both my Supers.

While the PTO was off I had to wire brush and sand the heck out of the pulley so it didn't eat the belt. Noticed the bearing was a little rough. I was able to get the injector in that and grease it as well.

Now time to put in the carb kit I ordered from NAPA. Not so fast, they sent the wrong kit, its not the one I ordered. I'll try to sort that out today and verify part numbers. Think they just gave dad the wrong kit. The last guy to work on it used some sort of glue to hold the bowl on--musts have taken 5 minutes to get the bowl off. Its not silicone.

J-Mech · #38 01-01-2017, 11:17 PM

Sounds like the PO was a mechanic wanna-be.

The rockshaft looks so easy to remove doesn't it?? It's not. While I have never needed to remove one, several people on here have..... sometimes they end up cutting it to get it out. Your a machinist, so maybe you will have more patience, and know how to properly "heat and beat". You know the story... most guys heat too slow, then heat too much, then beat too much, then heat again. By that time everything is so hot and swelled up it wouldn't matter if it was a slip fit, it ain't movin'. Drive the pins out, sand all the paint off, soak it in Kroil and come back in a few days. Bet it comes apart. If not, well.... you know what to do.

On the seal, my gut says it was installed crooked. Lasted as long as it was going to. If it didn't leak from the get go. I never want the new seal riding where an old one was so I try to get it in a different spot. Works good when they give you a 3/8" thick seal with a 3/4" deep groove.

I use anaerobic sealer on the outside of seals most of the time. Usually helps hold them in place.

The carb kits for those carbs are kind of weird when you get them. Is your an adjustable jet, or fixed? I think the carb's with the fixed jet don't have a removable needle valve seat....

Overall, sounds like you are going through it right.

john hall · #39 01-02-2017, 09:24 PM

Didn't work on the 1811 today but did some research on removing the rockshaft. Searched the forum and it appears the rockshaft assembly is made a little different on the older ones? I pulled up a parts diagram on a 128 and it appears there are individual pcs on the actual rockshaft. Therefore if nothing wants to move, you could maybe cut out the center section of the actual rockshaft and bring everything out in pcs. This one appears to be one big welded assembly according to the parts book. A quick inspection this afternoon makes me agree with that. I'm hoping its not the same bore size all the way through, hopefully the center piece has a larger bore then the ends are welded in place. Considering drilling a hole in the center and pumping in grease/light oil. Hopefully get the right carb kit tomorrow so at least it will be running before I tear into anything else.

jaynjeep · #40 01-02-2017, 10:51 PM

John,
The rockshaft pins on my early 1782 looked just that bad... the rockshaft didn't want to cooperate so I had to regroup... Wound up taking some time but I just hoisted the tractor up and layed under it with a wire welder... built the pins up a little at a time and with some careful grinding I got the pins back round again.. had to drill one hairpin clip hole back out because I got too close with the welder.. Took some time but turned out nice and I didn't have to remove the rockshaft!

Looking good... keep us posted!!