Had better days with the 2372

[zippy1]

WELL, to set the shaft length to rest. It is the exact length as the one I removed to replace. And the "original" one never fell out, so this one wouldn't.
The splines on the input shaft did get chipped from the coupler, I would imagine as it went apart.
The coupler was laying down in alongside the differential when it was all over.
Hey, I don't know what happened under there when it let go, guess I should have mounted a Gopro for the naysayers. All I know is the f@#$ing thing is a mess, and in my eyes it was from being lazy, and not using a new/different nut.
NOTHING is different, NOTHING else was changed from the last time it was used, other than a seal, driveshaft, which is the EXACT length as the one removed, and four nuts, three which were new, and one that was used.

[OldSkull]

Thank you for posting this Todd, I'm glad your safe, your post may have save my nuts because I have been to busy fixing the M20 I swap in my 1872 and overlook the drive assembly, I definitely need to focus on this before this sh%t explode between my legs like yours.

[jaynjeep]

Originally Posted by zippy1

WELL, to set the shaft length to rest. It is the exact length as the one I removed to replace. And the "original" one never fell out, so this one wouldn't.
The splines on the input shaft did get chipped from the coupler, I would imagine as it went apart.
The coupler was laying down in alongside the differential when it was all over.
Hey, I don't know what happened under there when it let go, guess I should have mounted a Gopro for the naysayers. All I know is the f@#$ing thing is a mess, and in my eyes it was from being lazy, and not using a new/different nut.
NOTHING is different, NOTHING else was changed from the last time it was used, other than a seal, driveshaft, which is the EXACT length as the one removed, and four nuts, three which were new, and one that was used.

Todd,

Sometimes stuff just happens... we may never know why it happened.. your explanation is good enough for me.. one thing for sure.. I bet it gets put back together with four brand new correct nuts!! and probably some loctite!!
I'm sure you are sick about it and probably ready to quit talking about it... when stuff like this happens to me I just want to fix it and move on!!

Thanks for posting for all of us to remember what can happen!

Glad you came out unscathed!!

[bocephus1991]

Dang! I had my flex plate disintegrate, driveshaft break and release arm br am while mowing. Glad you didn't get hurt!

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by zippy1

WELL, to set the shaft length to rest. It is the exact length as the one I removed to replace. And the "original" one never fell out, so this one wouldn't.
The splines on the input shaft did get chipped from the coupler, I would imagine as it went apart.
The coupler was laying down in alongside the differential when it was all over.
Hey, I don't know what happened under there when it let go, guess I should have mounted a Gopro for the naysayers. All I know is the f@#$ing thing is a mess, and in my eyes it was from being lazy, and not using a new/different nut.
NOTHING is different, NOTHING else was changed from the last time it was used, other than a seal, driveshaft, which is the EXACT length as the one removed, and four nuts, three which were new, and one that was used.

He Todd. I know you know we are just trying to help.

I went back through the build thread when you put the motor in. You got that engine from SEW, and I'm assuming that it came with the driveshaft adapter, and that it was designed to be used without modifying the old driveshaft. You say the new one was made the same as the old, and I get that.... but I still really think you need to double check the length of that shaft. My suggestion would be, since you have to remove the ends anyway, would be to strip the shaft down and see how far it goes into the bearings on the end. You shouldn't be able to get it in without moving something. Either the motor, or the coupler, or the rear.... something. Also, the parts diagram show a spiral pin for the coupler on the pump. I know it is splined, but does it have a place for the spirol pin? I don't have a SGT close to look at. If I'm down at the barn where they are later, I can look. I have an 1872 down there. Like I said, just trying to help buddy. I just don't think that bolt coming out should have let that shaft come out like it did.

[Sam Mac]

Todd I'm don't know why it failed, that said my suggestion to fix it is for you to replace the pump with one from a Cyclops Super and a drive shaft from an 1882 or 2082 and hydraulic lines from an 1872 or similar machine. If the pump doesn't have the pump adapter Jeff in PA makes them. Call me if you have any questions.

Sorry that you had this happen but glad you didn't get hurt.

[zippy1]

Unwrapped the lines and linkage from the driveshaft, and removed it today, to double check it's length, and compare to the one that was in it. And both are 24 1/2 inches.
So, that should put to rest the idea that the new driveshaft I had built was to short.

[Oak]

I would measure ball bushing to ball bushing to get the correct length Todd. My 982 with the the Onan P220 needed a longer shaft. I gotta work tomorrow but if I get home early enough I'll call you.

[zippy1]

Originally Posted by Oak

I would measure ball bushing to ball bushing to get the correct length Todd. My 982 with the the Onan P220 needed a longer shaft. I gotta work tomorrow but if I get home early enough I'll call you.

I get that Todd, but WHY would there not have been an issue before, with the same length driveshaft? I will measure tomorrow, but I still think/know it was the nut that came off that let it fly apart.

[Oak]

Okay, I was thinking the new shaft was put in when you put the new motor in but I see what you're saying if you had the old shaft in with the new motor.