New to me 982 - Page 4

R Bedell · #31 08-29-2019, 08:08 AM

What is the Diameter of the Drive Shaft on your tractor ??

frankpagliai · #32 08-29-2019, 10:02 AM

Do you happen to have the part number for the bearing?

frankpagliai · #33 08-29-2019, 10:06 AM

I think 1" I'll have to check this evening

R Bedell · #34 08-29-2019, 10:24 AM

The Flange Part Number is: 703-0231 and is still available.

The Bearing "depends" on the diameter of the shaft.

Oak · #35 08-30-2019, 05:58 AM

The 982 shaft should be 3/4" with the ends turned down to 5/8" where they go into the ball bushing on each end.

The ball bushing is replaceable and are made by this company. The correct part number from them is HE1410P. They have a minimum order if you buy from them.
http://www.triangleoshkosh.com/produ...shings-he1410p

Well, look who sells them now.

https://www.amazon.com/Qty-Triangle-...ustrial&sr=1-1

I had an issue when I installed a P220G in one of my 982's so you need to check yours too.

I removed the rag joints and checked the fitment of the original driveshaft and found that it was too short. The P220 engine flywheel is not as wide as a B48G making the engine more compact so the driveshaft would not go into the ball bushing on each end as shown here. The front is hooked up to the engine but look how short the shaft is from going inside the rear bushing.
DSCN3196.jpg

I contacted Jeff (Parts By Jeff in the header above) and had him make me a new driveshaft. You will need to do a bunch of measuring before you order one so if you go that route let us know and I'll show you what I did. Here is a pic of the old and new driveshaft.
DSCN3228.jpg

The best thing to do if you want to add power steering is get a setup from a 1872 or a 2072. It will bolt right up to it. The 3k would probably work but you would need to do a bunch of fabrication.

ol'George · #36 08-30-2019, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oak

The 982 shaft should be 3/4" with the ends turned down to 5/8" where they go into the ball bushing on each end.

The ball bushing is replaceable and are made by this company. The correct part number from them is HE1410P. They have a minimum order if you buy from them.
http://www.triangleoshkosh.com/produ...shings-he1410p

Well, look who sells them now.

https://www.amazon.com/Qty-Triangle-...ustrial&sr=1-1

I had an issue when I installed a P220G in one of my 982's so you need to check yours too.

I removed the rag joints and checked the fitment of the original driveshaft and found that it was too short. The P220 engine flywheel is not as wide as a B48G making the engine more compact so the driveshaft would not go into the ball bushing on each end as shown here. The front is hooked up to the engine but look how short the shaft is from going inside the rear bushing.
Attachment 101320

I contacted Jeff (Parts By Jeff in the header above) and had him make me a new driveshaft. You will need to do a bunch of measuring before you order one so if you go that route let us know and I'll show you what I did. Here is a pic of the old and new driveshaft.
Attachment 101321

The best thing to do if you want to add power steering is get a setup from a 1872 or a 2072. It will bolt right up to it. The 3k would probably work but you would need to do a bunch of fabrication.

Thanks oak couldn't remember who they were, as it has been some years.
The minimum then was 25 bushings.
I kept a dozen and sold the rest to a fellow here for just what it cost me + postage/shipping envelope.
They wound up like maybe 6-8 dollars each back then.
there are some folks on 'net sites asking 3-4 times that.
And IIRR, Triangle was the oem supplier back in the day.
The Lady on the phone was just wonderful, treating me like I was a million dollar customer.

frankpagliai · #37 08-30-2019, 02:33 PM

I didn't get a chance to check the measurements last night, I should be able to this weekend. I ended up unbolting the motor to get the driveshaft out. It was tight in there with double disc on each end. There also was not a ball in the rear coupling. The fan didn't have a clip, but had a bolt holding it in place. Surprising enough the rear roll pins came out fairly easy. I will have to get 3 new one when I get all the other parts rounded up. I'll try to get some photos of my project as well. Did you replace all the bolts on the driveline while you were there with grade 8(they looked gold in color)? How thick was your spacer that went behind the flange? Maybe the PO put a thicker one in when they changed the motor out?

Thank you for the input on the power steering. I'll keep my eyes out for a parts machine as that is a project that will be a while down the road.

Another question, what type hydraulic connection is on these. I had used an old lift cylinder off a 1450 to may my lawn aerator more user friendly, but I had added remotes on the rear of my 1650 so I just used whatever the local farm store had to make it work.

frankpagliai · #38 09-20-2019, 06:44 PM

Next problem, or opportunity.....the p220 starts easily cold, but after it warms up, it is next to impossible to restart it. Before, I would put my jump pack on the battery and that would help, so I replaced the battery with a little larger one, but still the same issue. I know its still relatively early, but I am so far not an Onan fan.

frankpagliai · #39 10-11-2019, 12:27 PM

I finally got a chance to put some time in the 982, new coil and ignition module and I'm up and running. They were mentioning that dirty 4 letter word on the weather the other day and thought I should go ahead and mount the blade. I am needing a diagram or something on how the rear of the blade frame attaches. Thanks in advance.

frankpagliai · #40 11-04-2019, 08:54 PM

I picked up 42" tiller today. I'm hoping it works out. The PO had it a year and never used it, and from the looks of things the owner before changed it over to a 540 pto shaft. Does anyone make a double ended adapter from the 2000 to 540?