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  #31  
Old 01-06-2021, 12:24 AM
Ambush Ambush is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: British Columbia
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I'm expecting some driveline parts to show up, so today seemed like a good day to get the drive shaft out. The pin pusher worked good but I definitely need to up grade the pusher bolt to have a hardened end. Chewed the end up.

Good time to pull the steering box and do that too. I was surprised how good a shape it was in, because it was loose and flopping around. I had to machine the follower to get the flat spots out. I was a little surprised how easy it was to machine, but I guess it's lasted forty five years. I had read on a thread here about checking the pivot plate for flatness. HOLY was that thing warped!! About fifteen minutes of fiddling under the press and it was all good. Great tip and thanks to whoever that was. Set up was quick and easy on the bench. I'm impressed with how easy this cub is to work on. Reminds of the old days when machinery was built to be serviced and repaired rather than replaced.
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  #32  
Old 01-06-2021, 12:29 AM
Ambush Ambush is offline
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The follower should be good for my life now. And not having a bearing to do the thrust bearing upgrade, I cut out a 1/8" thick Teflon washer instead.

I have a question about my driveline too. The shaft on the pump end has a pilot spigot the goes into a hole in the pump side coupling. Is this factory?
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  #33  
Old 01-08-2021, 01:25 AM
Ambush Ambush is offline
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Picked up a piece of 5/8" shaft today and made the new drive shaft. First machined the pilot hole round and concentric to the pump shaft bore. The shaft got a spigot to match that hole and the drive flange welded back on.

Then there was time to tackle the floppy steering knuckles. The tractor looked a bit knock knee'd from the front and when jacked up the tires drooped. A quick check on here for some info (thanks) revealed that the bolts were not tight enough and the knuckles were turning on the bolts instead of the bushing turning in the axle bore. I cleaned everything up and assembled one side. If I tried to tighten the bolt enough to have the ears squeeze the bushing the knuckle would bind on the axle. There was just enough wear on the ears where the bushing rides that they would hit the axle before pinching the bushing. I had some .030" stainless shim washers that with a quick machine fit perfectly on one end of the bushing. That was the perfect amount!

I thought it was odd that there was no grease groove around the bushing in line with the grease zirk, so I put one in. Also two shallow thin grooves 180 degrees apart running length wise to spread grease to the length of the bushing.

No more flop and there is camber now, the right way this time. Between this and the steering box rebuild it should handle like a Maserati. Big improvements for not much time and almost no money.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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