Mystery Cub.... 200 bucks, complete with quirks

[WesternCannonball]

Originally Posted by Cubcadet_107

Most recommend Case IH or Cub Cadet Hy-

The transmission design is relatively simple, with 2 gear sets to shift, allowing for 3 forward speeds plus an idler gear for 1 reverse speed. Realistically the stuck transmission shouldn't have to do with these gears themselves, unless it happens to be stuck in a gear. To check that simply pull the top cover on the transmission where the shift lever is, look at the shifter forks (there's 2, one on each side) and make sure they both are in the center (neutral). If one isn't in neutral attempt to move it out of gear by hand.

Now it is possible that one of the 2 tabs that she shift lever slides into in order to shift the gears has broken off completely, or bent far out. They are particular weak points in the transmission, and mainly break when someone tries to force the tractor into a gear. They can be welded to add strength and keep them from bending/breaking in the future. The pic below is the shift fork area beneath the top cover. I have labeled front/rear and the tabs that I am talking about. It also shows where they should be in order to be in neutral.

Attachment 106831

If both are in neutral and everything still will not turn freely, you could be dealing with a stuck bearing, which may require tearing further into the transmission to remove and replace it. Hopefully not, though!

Here's the manual for the 70/100 tractors from the tech section: https://s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/c...ervice+Man.pdf

Got into it and looked before touching. My tabs are not centered like that, but they are intact. So, it appears this one is stuck in a gear or partway there. Time for some wiggling!
The transmission section of that manual looks identical to the one for my 122's, as are the numbers molded into the metal of the housing.
I hope it's not a stuck bearing, too! I suppose, though, with the muck that was in this when I pulled the drain plug and rearmost seal, it's possible. But wouldn't a stuck bearing cause it to not turn at all?

[WesternCannonball]

Originally Posted by Cubcadet_107

Lew I completely forgot about the brake (I'm used to my external disc brakes ), good catch on that one!



Couldn't agree more, I kinda went off into a paragraph about how most fluids will work when I really didn't need to because this is a gear drive, not a hydro.

Well, if trying to free up the shifter tabs doesn't do the trick, then I'll start work on the brakes. I"m hoping it's something simple!

[ironman]

Originally Posted by WesternCannonball

Well, if trying to free up the shifter tabs doesn't do the trick, then I'll start work on the brakes. I"m hoping it's something simple!

If the brake puck is indeed rusted/frozen in its cylinder and you have to fix it,
you will know a lot more about Cub Cadets than you do presently.

[Cubcadet_107]

Originally Posted by WesternCannonball

Got into it and looked before touching. My tabs are not centered like that, but they are intact. So, it appears this one is stuck in a gear or partway there. Time for some wiggling!
The transmission section of that manual looks identical to the one for my 122's, as are the numbers molded into the metal of the housing.
I hope it's not a stuck bearing, too! I suppose, though, with the muck that was in this when I pulled the drain plug and rearmost seal, it's possible. But wouldn't a stuck bearing cause it to not turn at all?

The gear transmissions remain the same on all the Cub Cadets (other than the Original, and there are brake differences through the years). That picture I edited is actually from a Farmall Cub tractor, which is still the same transmission.

Those tabs are prone to bending, so it doesn't surprise me that they are bent. I have yet to need to repair the shifter on my 106 but I bet they are probably bent out of place a bit as well. If it is stuck in or partially in a gear, that would explain the stuck transmission. It could be that and a combination of stuck brake, too.

At this point I don't think it's a stuck bearing. Even if a bearing was stuck, the rear wheels will still spin in opposite directions because of the "spider" gears in the center of the differential. They spin independently of the rest of the differential, so even when the differential can't spin, the gears inside it can.

[WesternCannonball]

Good news, everyone! After using a hammer and a punch to free up the shifter tabs (gently, of course!), I attempted to remove the brake and housing to see if something there was stuck. While trying to break the pin holding the brake lever loose, with the hammer and a bigger punch, the whole rear end started moving under me. Apparently, something in the brakes was stuck, and all the hammering broke it free.
The rear end now rolls on it's own properly, not just spinning from side to side. Still stiff, but nothing a little fresh lube can't fix! Thank you to all who aided me in that mystery.
Now to clean all the gunk out of the bottom, get some new gaskets, fill it up and reattach it. Then I'll move on to the busted wires, and then to trying to spin the engine over.... hmm, might actually try that while waiting for cleaner to work and new gaskets to arrive, save a little time!
I'm sure I'll be back with more stupid questions, so stay tuned for episode two of this quirky little tractor!

[ol'George]

Have you figured out what model engine the Te junk ski is?
The only ones I ever respected were the Cast Iron blocks.
Like HH 100, HH 120 or the later OHV engines.
IIRR anything with an "H" designation were cast Iron.
But I know little of them, as most were "done blowed up" by the time I got them.

[Cubcadet_107]

Originally Posted by ol'George

Have you figured out what model engine the Te junk ski is?
The only ones I ever respected were the Cast Iron blocks.
Like HH 100, HH 120 or the later OHV engines.
IIRR anything with an "H" designation were cast Iron.
But I know little of them, as most were "done blowed up" by the time I got them.

My vote is that it's from a Massey Ferguson. In the pictures you can see that the fuel tank sits the wrong way under the hood (compared to the Kohler one) indicating that it would have run a belt drive facing sideways (like a Wheel Horse or Deere drivetrain). Massey Ferguson used the same design. The engine also matches the MF gray color.

IIRC the engines in those tractors were cast iron. If the HP can be found that would determine what it came out of, as the MF model #'s directly equal engine HP (EX: The Massey Ferguson 8 has 8 hp).

I have one Te-junk-ski that done blowed up, I got it for free already knowing it's issue. Just an aluminum block, so nothing special there. I've also got a 6hp cast iron one (it's painted orange, wonder what it came off of?) that with a carb clean, mouse nest removal, and points filing, should run. Just gotta get around to it first

Okay, enough off-topic tractor talk for me

[WesternCannonball]

Originally Posted by Cubcadet_107

My vote is that it's from a Massey Ferguson. In the pictures you can see that the fuel tank sits the wrong way under the hood (compared to the Kohler one) indicating that it would have run a belt drive facing sideways (like a Wheel Horse or Deere drivetrain). Massey Ferguson used the same design. The engine also matches the MF gray color.

IIRC the engines in those tractors were cast iron. If the HP can be found that would determine what it came out of, as the MF model #'s directly equal engine HP (EX: The Massey Ferguson 8 has 8 hp).

I have one Te-junk-ski that done blowed up, I got it for free already knowing it's issue. Just an aluminum block, so nothing special there. I've also got a 6hp cast iron one (it's painted orange, wonder what it came off of?) that with a carb clean, mouse nest removal, and points filing, should run. Just gotta get around to it first

Okay, enough off-topic tractor talk for me

Somebody on a FB garden tractor page put up a picture of a Wheelhorse with that side-pulley setup. I was finally able to clean enough dirt off the engine to locate a set of numbers, stamped into the metal of the cowling above the engine's brand name tag, which would have originally been on the left side of the engine before it was turned 90 degrees to fit this Cub. The numbers read "HH100115255H" gap "SER30761" (guessing that's the serial number?) So, was this a 10HP cast iron Tecumseh?
I have yet to attempt to get the engine started, but in the process of removing the drive shaft from the rear end, I found the holes in the clutch plates to be completely worn out. They will need to be replaced. I will add some pictures of that after getting the engine out of the frame for cleaning out the gunk. Air cleaner had oil in it, so I think it needs to be inspected before I try to start it.

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by WesternCannonball

Somebody on a FB garden tractor page put up a picture of a Wheelhorse with that side-pulley setup. I was finally able to clean enough dirt off the engine to locate a set of numbers, stamped into the metal of the cowling above the engine's brand name tag, which would have originally been on the left side of the engine before it was turned 90 degrees to fit this Cub. The numbers read "HH100115255H" gap "SER30761" (guessing that's the serial number?) So, was this a 10HP cast iron Tecumseh?
I have yet to attempt to get the engine started, but in the process of removing the drive shaft from the rear end, I found the holes in the clutch plates to be completely worn out. They will need to be replaced. I will add some pictures of that after getting the engine out of the frame for cleaning out the gunk. Air cleaner had oil in it, so I think it needs to be inspected before I try to start it.

Yep Hh100 is a 10 Hp and a good one, various manufactures used them including Case and Deere.
I never liked the tillotson carb, I prefer a kohler or better yet, carter carb.
Good engine with tapered Timken roller bearings on the crank.

[finsruskw]

Puck??
I think you mean the brake lining retainer.
Part #3 in the parts book