Mini Dozer Idea Factory (potential build)

[Ambush]

^^^ Sort of. Ground speed will be figured with the track on the drive. Measure from the ground to the top of the track pad and that's the diameter.

Coincidence, but in the early '70's I worked at the GM Diesel Division in London Ontario. We built locomotives and huge Terex dump trucks for mines. Our sister plant built buses and those eclectic GM dual axle diesel pusher motor homes.

[DRohacek]

Originally Posted by Ambush

^^^ Sort of. Ground speed will be figured with the track on the drive. Measure from the ground to the top of the track pad and that's the diameter.

Coincidence, but in the early '70's I worked at the GM Diesel Division in London Ontario. We built locomotives and huge Terex dump trucks for mines. Our sister plant built busses and those eclectic GM dual axle diesel pusher motorhomes.

Interesting indeed. Because of the anti-trust suit against GM back in the late 60's they were forbidden to build certain items in the US for a period of time. So, they build many of the pieces (which was legal) in the US and shipped them to Canada for assembly.
I worked in the area for many years that built the rear ends for the TS-14 and TS-24 Scrapers. The Terex Titan was always a favorite discussion topic with it's 4,800 hp locomotive engine powering a generator driving traction motors on each wheel. Terex Engineering was in the building behind the Hudson, Ohio plant where I worked. They always had some neat stuff going on out there. Sometimes during our lunch we would slip back there to see what new thing they were working on. There was also a test track out there. The 33-09 and 33-11 Trucks were built at the "West Side" which was in Cleveland, Ohio but we built the rears for them in Hudson. One night I got to drive one on the test track. V-16 Detroit Diesel with an Allison automatic transmission. 85 Ton payload. Big truck but nothing like the 350 ton Titan. They were legendary. They never sold the Titans, they only leased them. Some out west in copper mines but most went to British Columbia

[sawdustdad]

Track diameter needs to take into account ground clearance. May need to push the bogie wheels down an inch or two below the drive/idler wheels to maintain ground clearance and keep drive and idler wheels smaller.

Contemplating two rows of ANSI 100H chain welded to the inside of the track and using a pair of matching sprockets (approx 12 in dia) spaced about 3-4 inches apart. Idlers and bogies run between the chains. Track plates would need guides to keep the track on the sprockets. I need to pick a particular dozer to use as a model so I can start scaling the components.

I just realized today that the 1210 I bought a couple weeks ago has a manual lift, so the hydro may not be ported. Not sure what I was thinking. Might be ported and plugged, but I haven't put eyes on it yet.

Almost got it running today--well it runs on starter fluid anyway. Had to fix the starter Bendix. It's probably been sitting for at least 8 or 9 years. Battery in it was dated 2006. It does have an electric PTO with a 5/8 belt. The electric PTO would allow easy uncoupling from the hydros for starting.

Once I get the fuel system working, I'll know the condition of the engine. It shows 1142 hours on the clock.

I have 4 spare Cub engines, but they are all mechanical PTO engines. 2-10's a 12 and a 14.









At least I have all the parts necessary for running a hydraulic pump off the back side of a hydro. LOL. As Ambush said, "you'll find a use for them on a future project."

[ironman]

An idea to throw in, although I have no idea how to do it, but....

Take two hydro transaxles, remove the axle and tube from the left side of one, remove the axle and tube from the right side of the other. Make cover plates for the axle tubes that were removed. Mount the two transaxles side by side, butted together at the new cover plates.

Using a triangular track system, each hydro would be your drive sprocket for that side. Your right and left control sticks would control only it's own hydro, thus having one track going forward while the orther is going back would be no problem.

Engine could be mounted forward with a shaft going back, then a pulley/belt off that shaft to drive each individual hydro input.

[Ambush]

^^^^ Now that is an interesting concept!

Joining the diffs would be easy and well within your skill/equipment levels.

You can easily swap the control plate to the opposite side on the right side hydro. You could raise the axle combo up then run the tracks over the idlers at each end for a genuine Hi-Drive. That leaves you free to use a conventional track tension system as well.

With the axle mounted higher than the drive shaft from the engine, you can have three pulleys in an inverted triangle with the hydro inputs on top.

Sawdustdad, I don't think you can maneuverer your way out of building something now. You dangled the trailers in front of us, now we want the movie!

[sawdustdad]

Originally Posted by Ambush

^^^^ Now that is an interesting concept!

Joining the diffs would be easy and well within your skill/equipment levels.

You can easily swap the control plate to the opposite side on the right side hydro. You could raise the axle combo up then run the tracks over the idlers at each end for a genuine Hi-Drive. That leaves you free to use a conventional track tension system as well.

With the axle mounted higher than the drive shaft from the engine, you can have three pulleys in an inverted triangle with the hydro inputs on top.

Sawdustdad, I don't think you can maneuverer your way out of building something now. You dangled the trailers in front of us, now we want the movie!

An intriguing concept, for sure. It would increase the track width by a foot or so.

I'm planning to build something.

[V30crewcab]

Originally Posted by ironman

An idea to throw in, although I have no idea how to do it, but....

Take two hydro transaxles, remove the axle and tube from the left side of one, remove the axle and tube from the right side of the other. Make cover plates for the axle tubes that were removed. Mount the two transaxles side by side, butted together at the new cover plates.

Using a triangular track system, each hydro would be your drive sprocket for that side. Your right and left control sticks would control only it's own hydro, thus having one track going forward while the orther is going back would be no problem.

Engine could be mounted forward with a shaft going back, then a pulley/belt off that shaft to drive each individual hydro input.

This idea has been going thru my head for awhile now. only way to do it without being real wide is to machine a new case and some custom parts to run twin ring gears in a single case as close as possible.
If only I had time!

[ironman]

Originally Posted by V30crewcab

This idea has been going thru my head for awhile now. only way to do it without being real wide is to machine a new case and some custom parts to run twin ring gears in a single case as close as possible.
If only I had time!

Instead of machining the case, what about the axles and tubes.
Whenever a custom shop wants to add wider tires to the rear of a car/truck,
in order for the tires to fit under the fenders they narrow the rear end by cutting
the needed amount out of each side of the rear end housing between the carrier
and the outer axle bearings. And the same amount is cut from the axles.

The ends of the Cub axle tubes could be machined off and moved in,
and the axles shortened. Beyond my abilities, but certainly doable.

[DRohacek]

Originally Posted by V30crewcab

This idea has been going thru my head for awhile now. only way to do it without being real wide is to machine a new case and some custom parts to run twin ring gears in a single case as close as possible.
If only I had time!

8280 Terex two complete engines, transmissions, and rears hooked together from the factory. 2 V-671 Detroits.

[sawdustdad]

Originally Posted by ironman

Instead of machining the case, what about the axles and tubes.
Whenever a custom shop wants to add wider tires to the rear of a car/truck,
in order for the tires to fit under the fenders they narrow the rear end by cutting
the needed amount out of each side of the rear end housing between the carrier
and the outer axle bearings. And the same amount is cut from the axles.

The ends of the Cub axle tubes could be machined off and moved in,
and the axles shortened. Beyond my abilities, but certainly doable.

I'm guessing that shortening a car axle is easier--it's steel, not cast iron. Welding the cub axle, being case iron, is problematic.