Wide frame PTO OK on a Narrow frame? - Page 5

TheSaturnV · #41 05-07-2014, 12:55 PM

I seemed to have found a knack for optical illusions.

The levers clear the mailboxes with room to spare, and that chip is what happened when the roll pin on the PTO lever sheared and it struck the grill. At least 2 other places got gouged as well.

I'd never have guessed this silly thing would be this tough to get working.

DoubleO7 · #42 05-07-2014, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheSaturnV

I seemed to have found a knack for optical illusions.

that chip is what happened when the roll pin on the PTO lever sheared and it struck the grill. At least 2 other places got gouged as well.

I'd never have guessed this silly thing would be this tough to get working.

Okay so talking about optical illusions.....................
And resurrecting my previous post:
"I do not know why but the engagement lever with the rod in it (and the paint chip on it) looks really high/long.
If it was longer, you would not be able to move the thrust button enough to operate the pto properly.

I can't imagine you changed that out or altered it."

Now I went and snagged this image from your vid #1 I believe.
Notice the same lever is resting on the cast iron grill support.
And notice that it does not hang out from the contact point like what appears to be about 6" from the contact point on the freshly painted rod arm.
Did you mix parts, alter it or is it just another illusion?
This whole thing is just crazy, LOL.

TheSaturnV · #43 05-07-2014, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DoubleO7

This whole thing is just crazy, LOL.

Apparently how I roll.

I don't think the lever has any contribution to the problem. This is the only older CC I have, so I know for certain the rock lever hasn't gotten mixed up. The graphite button strikes the PTO button squarely.

So strange...

DoubleO7 · #44 05-07-2014, 06:23 PM

I mean the bar that the engagement rod is pulling on. Not the bar that holds the wear button.
Appears taller now than it did when all dirty in the video.
Probably just an illusion.

darkminion_17 · #45 05-07-2014, 06:44 PM

Looks like the right one to me.

We spoke the other day about this, had a nice conversation.

I am pretty sure that the pto basket pulley should be back farther, or the bearing beyond the crank,the back plate on the pto will hit the area behind basket indentations.

Yosemite Sam · #46 05-07-2014, 09:15 PM

Yeah, in the center picture that does look like it's too far back in the basket.

However, with the bearing, the retainer and the flange for the basket pulley all in there is it even possible for the pto to be so far in the basket that it would cause problems?

tonka.scout800a · #47 05-09-2014, 03:52 PM

Get it working yet??

Just got my assembly in the mail and it looks kinda like yours. Has the 2 pressure springs instead of 1.

hope I can get it to work.

mike melillo · #48 05-09-2014, 11:35 PM

After reading the thread I can add a little info, and a couple of things to check.

First, the bearing on the crank has a sir clip on the ID. That must be set flush to the end of the crank. If the basket (Starter pulley On the crank) is set to far forward you won't be able to set that bearing back far enough.

Next, I can tell you that on the last two friction discs I got from Cub Cadet, that they needed to be fitted to the basket to prevent breaking the ears off, and allow the PTO pulley to set all the way back. Yours looks to be deep enough in the basket, but it's worth a look. Take the friction disc out of the PTO, and place it into the basket being sure its going all the way back without binding. If it binds figure out which ear is too long and sand it down.

Another way to verify that the PTO basket is set to the proper depth pertains to the allen set screws that lock it together (long ones with points). Those don't drive into the bearing, they actually set just behind the bearing pushing it into the PTO pulley, binding it together. If you remove the set screws and take a good flashlight you can peer into the set screw hole and see the very edge of the bearing if its installed correctly. If the points look mashed, or the hole looks solid the PTO pulley isn't back far enough. Again, be sure bearing sir clip is flush to crank.

I'm pretty sure if you check these things carefully you will be able to get it to work. IF not, you will need to compare all dimensions of each part to be sure noting is too thick; PTO pulley, friction disc, and pressure plate.

Two more notes:1) when you lock the bearing collar be suer to go against crank rotation. 2) don't forget to insert the 3 anti rattle springs. You don't have them in in your image.

Best of luck,
Mike

TheSaturnV · #49 05-10-2014, 01:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mike melillo

1) when you lock the bearing collar be suer to go against crank rotation.
Mike

Mike,

I thought the bearing/collar tightened WITH the engine rotation.

Thanks for all the help, I will get back on that.

tonka.scout800a · #50 05-10-2014, 02:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheSaturnV

Mike,

I thought the bearing/collar tightened WITH the engine rotation.

Thanks for all the help, I will get back on that.

Reading the service manual and preparing to install my PTO clutch bearing. It states :
"Be sure to lock the collar to the bearing in the direction of crankshaft rotation"
on page 2-44 of the 1x2-3 manual

Guess I need to take the old one off so I will understand what that means exactly.