New to Pulling

[dvogtvpe]

you can just adjust the stop on the pivot below the carb. shoes it in the manual. you'll want to put the 26 carb back on. you're hurting the torque with a 30

[bschmittling]

Originally Posted by dvogtvpe

you can just adjust the stop on the pivot below the carb. shoes it in the manual. you'll want to put the 26 carb back on. you're hurting the torque with a 30

I tried that. Also checked to make sure the carburetor is fully open at full throttle. Going to try a new carb. Of course I didn't read this first and ordered a #30. Most people at the pull were running #30s. Why would it hurt torque?

[dvogtvpe]

to run at 4000 rpms it takes little movement of the carb linkage. if the carb went wide open your engine would turn mid 5s. as long as you adjusted the governor to the carb as per the manual that's all you need, why you lose torque with a #30 carb - air velocity. the majority of stocker guys don't believe it but dyno numbers don't lie and engine guys know whats going on.

[J-Mech]

Probably should pull the fluid. Fluid creates drag. Plus, move-able weight on a pulling tractor is what you want. That way next time your too heavy, you just take off some weight. Fluid is for pulling plows, not so good in tractor pulls where wheel speed is more important.

[bschmittling]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Probably should pull the fluid. Fluid creates drag. Plus, move-able weight on a pulling tractor is what you want. That way next time your too heavy, you just take off some weight. Fluid is for pulling plows, not so good in tractor pulls where wheel speed is more important.

Going to remove the fluid this weekend. That way I can pull on the 1000 lb. class and 1050 lb. class.

One of the issues I am having with the rpms may be my timing. I can't see the timing mark but the original owner put a white dot on the flywheel that he used for timing. What I don't know is if it is TDC or 20 degrees before TDC. My point gap is set on .016 right now and it starts and runs fine, even wide open, but it doesn't want to go over 3600 rpm. If the timing was too retarded, would that affect the rpm?

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by bschmittling

If the timing was too retarded, would that affect the rpm?

Yes, absolutely.

Find the timing marks. Pull the engine and take the cover off if you have to. Point gap is only a minor indicator of where the timing is. In other words, depending on how much the cam lobe or the point pushrod is worn, you may not be anywhere close to where you think you are. Did you adjust the governor? If the governor to carb linkage is not correct, that will affect it too. Like Don said, you need to ditch the bigger carb too.

[bschmittling]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Yes, absolutely.

Find the timing marks. Pull the engine and take the cover off if you have to. Point gap is only a minor indicator of where the timing is. In other words, depending on how much the cam lobe or the point pushrod is worn, you may not be anywhere close to where you think you are. Did you adjust the governor? If the governor to carb linkage is not correct, that will affect it too. Like Don said, you need to ditch the bigger carb too.

I adjusted to governor so the carb could go wide open so that is not the problem. I will play with the timing and ditch the bigger carb. Thanks for the tips.

[J-Mech]

Did you adjust the governor? Or the linkage? If you didn't adjust it like the procedure in the service manual, then it won't work right.

[bschmittling]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Did you adjust the governor? Or the linkage? If you didn't adjust it like the procedure in the service manual, then it won't work right.

I loosened the bolt. Turned the shaft counter clockwise, then pulled the governor arm as far back as it would go and retightened the bolt.

[J-Mech]

Ok, you did it right then.

Get your timing set now. Once you find TDC, I suggest bumping it up at least 3° advanced.