New 1050

[olds45512]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Yes, you are correct. I didn't realize I hit the 5 and not the 9. Sorry about that.

Ok I was just checking because I wasn't sure which was correct.

[olds45512]

well im happy now. the dash on the 1050 is trashed and has chunks of plastic missing but i managed to score a nice on off ebay for $40, i dont plan to install it until it gets painted. tomorrow i plan to pull the carb and clean it because it started to run only on choke, im hoping it just sucked up some trash from the tank. i also plan to pull the tins as its obviously full of nesting material, i will also change the oil since its black as coal. the engine does smoke a bit but im hoping its from bad gas and sitting but if not the little 10hp wont be to hard on the pocket to rebuild.

[olds45512]

This 1050 is my first experience with the newer style 3 speed I've heard some negative things about them but wanted to hear some opinions from you guys. This rearend has some leaks I need to repair but if its not a good rearend I don't want to waste the money because I have 2 cast iron rears I could put in it, I will mostly be using it to mow but there's always a possibility of taking it to a plow day.

[J-Mech]

They were kind of bad about stripping second gear out. I honestly think that has more to do with the era of owners from that time frame though. They have the same basic parts internally. Gear count is the same and the shafts are the same sizes, so most parts will interchange. The case is split from the rear. By that I mean that you can separate the gear housing from the rear end. Actually, after they came out with the aluminum gear cases, the hydro and the gear driver use the same rear housing. The ring an pinion in the aluminum units is a straight cut gear set, unlike the older ones with a helical cut gear set. They tend to be little noisier than the older ones. I wouldn't worry about it at all. They hold up well unless your pumping 30hp and 35ftlbs of torque through them at high speed. Take it apart and seal it up. But, if you'd rather use a CI unit, it will bolt right in.

[olds45512]

I did notice the rearend had a whine to it, I guess I will order some seals and go from there.

[olds45512]

Got my new dash today and its even nicer in person than in pics, as you can see it doesn't even have marks from the hood rubbing it. It is broken in the top corner but it will be much easier to fix than if the edge was all busted up.

[J-Mech]

Nice!

You gonna go ahead and knock out the gauge holes and add some?

[olds45512]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Nice!

You gonna go ahead and knock out the gauge holes and add some?

I don't know, the tractor didn't come with any from the factory but it looks kinda plain without them. I guess I have a few months to decide before I start painting it.

On a different note there's a 1250 sitting at the local scrap yard for $75 but its been there so long I bet they'd take $50 and I was thinking about buying it for the engine and part out the rest, I know the tractors rare but 12hp sure would be nice.

[J-Mech]

It would make for an easy swap.....

I know what you mean about the 1050 being rare. I think I'm gonna put a 12hp in mine. I have one sitting on the bench ready to assemble (rebuilt). I was going to put it in my 1250DS, but it can wait. The 1050 would just be a quick swap as it already is up and running. The 1250.... it needs some work.

[mickb72]

Hey Olds, the wires are already there for an amp gauge (deadheaded), don't know about the hour meter. Roland has a wiring diagram. Mike