1450 (new arrival)

[budscub]

No it should have both lines all the way to the front. Looks like a PO had a leak and just capped it off using your other Coupling. That's too bad about the line. but it is a good thing the other coupler is still there.

[Lanceskene]

Originally Posted by budscub

No it should have both lines all the way to the front. Looks like a PO had a leak and just capped it off using your other Coupling. That's too bad about the line. but it is a good thing the other coupler is still there.

Thx, thats exactly what I suspected.

[OldSkull]

I bet the left engine rail was moving around so bad he chew the hydraulic line!
Do the cradle mod Lance, this help a lot more then you think.

[Lanceskene]

Im not gonna weld in a crossmember, I'll inform the buyer that the option is available, and even do it if requested, but I would add it as a bolt on piece rather than weld it in, Ive been a metal fabricator for 30+ years and IMO that would be a better method in the long term.

This thing is going together with new rubbers, new bolts, and even a diff oil pan that has never been bolted to a tractor using the holes in the pan. So with everything fresh it should last another 40+ years.

Gilles do those pics show you what you needed to see on the dual stick setup???

[Lanceskene]

What would normally hold the headights in place? I have the oem perforated panel(in rough cond) but no lamps or means to hold them in. I have some heavier gauge perf'd steel so Im gonna make a new panel but it will look very much like the oem part.

[twoton]

Hey Lance,

Good to see your progress. If you're looking to add headlights to your Quietline you could see if our sponsors have the grommets and bulbs. If not try here;

http://ccspecialties.org/lights.html

Or you could order a couple of truck taillight grommets;

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CMH3B0...I11HUK76WLYU3D

like our good friend Brian did here;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...625#post312625

and use a dremel like your buddy Gilles does to cut your existing screen.

Good luck!

[Lanceskene]

Im not 'Adding' lights, just replacing the ones that are missing, the wiring is all in tact and working, the perforated front panel has holes that the small seal beams fit into without using grommets but what ever was used to hold them in place is missing. I was thinking possibly just some wire clips or springs. I dont see this setup on the link above so I suppose its possible that a PO has done some modification but the front panel appears to be OEM, complete with a plastic IH center logo.

Im on coffee break but I'll get some pics later

[twoton]

So you just need the rubber grommets and a couple of bulbs? I couldn't find the grommets through our sponsors and it looks like they're out of stock at Charlies place. The grommets from Grote are larger than the OEM so you might have to cut your existing screen to make them fit.

[Lanceskene]

If the rubber grommets are the only thing that holds the bulbs in place then that is likely all I need, Ive never worked on one of these models before so I dont know whats missing. Heres a pic of the front perf'd panel, its in rough cond so I flattened it out to use it as a template and I put the original emblem back on for the pic.

On the first link there is an 'Add-On' kit(second last item) that might work but I dont really need more sealed beams, got about 15 on the shelf now.

Im not 'Restoring' this rig so I may improvise here a little, Princess Auto might even stock something similar so I'll check there this week

[Lanceskene]

The lower screen is MIA so heres what I have so far. The upper light bezel is 16 gauge galv steel, holes are slightly larger than Oem. The lower screen is 0.080 expanded aluminum.