Joined the Super Cyclops Club - Page 5

Sam Mac · #41 10-03-2018, 02:38 PM

I'm going by the Cub Cadet published spec info sheet. 1st pic is the Supers 2nd pic is the GT's

Sam Mac · #42 10-03-2018, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gompers

Here's some of the carnage. I don't know if I've ever seen a head/cylinder/piston this dirty before. There was a HUGE hole in the head gasket though. It was basically gone on both sides. Also, a couple of the head bolts were basically finger tight. Not sure which came first, but neither one is good.

Someone mentioned improved head gaskets for these. I can't seem to find anything other than what these look like. None with fire rings. Those are just for the CH25 and bigger it seems. I get P/N KH-24-841-01-S from everything I can find and nothing that's been superseded.

Just my 2 cents, but I'd stick a new seal in it behind the flywheel while you have it opened up.

Gompers · #43 10-03-2018, 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Just my 2 cents, but I'd stick a new seal in it behind the flywheel while you have it opened up.

And thus started the great seal replacement debate of 2018

Not the worst idea. It's pretty oily, but that seems to be mostly from the head gaskets spitting oil everywhere.

Haven't pulled flywheel yet, but was planning on it before I buttoned her back up.

J-Mech · #44 10-03-2018, 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CubCadets

It's actually 5.75". I believe the rest of the length comes from the front axle.

The new member debates with us. Claassis.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Your both wrong, the over all length of a Cyclops GT is 72" the Cyclops Supers are 78.5 so it's 6.5 inch's

I rounded it off.

jaynjeep · #45 10-03-2018, 09:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Just my 2 cents, but I'd stick a new seal in it behind the flywheel while you have it opened up.

Yes I agree... the Commands and Mag twins seem to have issues with the crank seals when they get some age.. K series not so much!

Gompers · #46 10-04-2018, 10:03 PM

Tore it down as far as I'm going to.
Replaced the front seal (it was leaking a little).
Trued the heads. They weren't that bad. just a low spot where the gasket had blown.
Started cleaning. It's going to take a while.

Think I have all the parts I need on the way or in hand. It needed a couple of exhaust studs, a new linkage spring (the small one ), 2x head gasket kits and general maintenance items (air filter, oil filter, plugs etc) so far.

Haven't decided if I'm going to tear the carb apart yet. It looked pretty clean and everything was free. No varnish-y gas in the lines or anything. Not that hard to pull off back in the tractor.

Don't see any other major issues with it. Pretty confident It'll just fire up.

Gompers · #47 10-06-2018, 09:05 PM

Got her running tonight.

Cleaned for what seems like forever, but every part, fastener and piece of tin was clean when I put it back together. Put the new head gaskets on, got it all back together, new oil and filter, new plugs, put an older car battery in that I had sitting around. It fired right up as soon as I hit the key after putting a little fuel in the carb. Ran it off a gas can until I checked the gas tank, which was very clean. Poured some gas in and it started right up again and ran pretty darn good. No smoke.

Still need to adjust the carb on it I think, but there isn't much to mess with on it. Runs great at WOT. Just a little stumbly at idle. Is that a characteristic of these motors? Might have low idle set a little low too. Didn't get around to that. Overall, very nitpick-y things.

As far as the rest of the tractor, the hydro is basically silent, smooth and seems to work great. Quietest hydro I've had. Makes me wonder if the rest of my tractors have issues now. The power steering seems perfect. Lift works from what I can tell. No leaks (that I've noticed, yet...).

Drove it around a little too. Yard is wet so I've been trying to keep off of it. This thing is a whole new level of nice. I'd say about the same as going from a narrow frame to a 782.

Before I did all that, Pulled off the 54 GT and power washed it and the tractor. That's not a very fun job when it's 46 degrees out. The deck has shed most of the paint on top, and had one spindle slightly stuck. Got it freed up and they all spin ok now, but obviously need to be gone through. It seems to be structurally sound. Just wanted to get grass off it before the winter and hopefully stop it from getting any worse before I decide what to do with it for next year.

So, overall, I have about $350 in this thing, for what seems like a pretty awesome tractor.

CubDieselFan · #48 10-06-2018, 10:01 PM

Awesome that it runs good. You have a great tractor.

105_Tom · #49 10-06-2018, 11:15 PM

I love my 2084 and love hearing these stories of bringing these machines back from the dead. I found the Command series very easy to work on and light weight compared to a Mag or KT series twin. Keep up the good work. The 54GT deck will give a lovely cut when leveled and blades are sharpened and true.

Gompers · #50 10-06-2018, 11:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 105_Tom

I love my 2084 and love hearing these stories of bringing these machines back from the dead. I found the Command series very easy to work on and light weight compared to a Mag or KT series twin. Keep up the good work. The 54GT deck will give a lovely cut when leveled and blades are sharpened and true.

I gotta day, it is a very nice machine. If ccc had stuck with metal hoods, and beefed up the rear a bit, this thing would have been flawless.

I don’t think this one was close to dead. Just maybe a bit of flu.

I’ve got more than a few mag/KTs around. I like them a lot, but these are definitely easier in a lot of ways. And the packaging in the tractor is a lot nicer too.

Been mowing this year with a 48GT and it does a very nice job.