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#42
12-19-2020, 11:09 PM
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Daleag, my 1772 is put away for the winter, but the post about checking the valve lash is a good one. Right when I got my 1772, I went through all the maintenance items top to bottom since I did not have the history of the machine. I found some previous owner did not know how to adjust the valves properly. Some valves were tight, had some clearance but below the lower limit, a couple valves had about 1/4" inch clearance - yes - 0.250" clearance. It ran a lot better when I was done. I would check your machine over closely making note of what was "adjusted"by previous owners.
Make sure the pivot adjusting/stop bolts are properly adjusted. On my 1772, I don't believe they were ever touched and had excess clearance. Adding the fact that the pivot bolt was not greased in a log time, caused wear on the front axle so when you turned the wheels to make a turn, the axle twisted and the caster would change. Looking at the workshop manual for the D640, I found the following in the troubleshooting section. Excessive white or blue exhaust smoke:
Either black or dark gray exhaust is observed:
Deficient output:
Also check the drive line as diesels are hard on them.
__________________
1989 - Cub Cadet 1772 1987 - Cub Cadet 1572 w/Rear PTO & Cat. 0 38" Lawn Sweeper #196483 42" L42 (Bush Hog) Rotary Cutter # 190349 45" 2-Stage Snowblower # 196364 48" Haban Rotortiller Rear PTO Driven #190356 54" SnowBlade with hydraulic Angle #196376 60" Haban Mowing Deck #196374 
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#43
12-19-2020, 11:56 PM
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Roger on checking valve lash and working my way down as much of that list as I can with the tools I have access to.
re: drive line... how much wobble is "normal" with rag joint driveshafts? Mine is certainly not perfectly smooth... 
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#44
12-20-2020, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
__________________
1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo.
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#45
12-20-2020, 09:11 AM
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Here is a link to one drive shaft upgrade. Not much to it, just a little time consuming, if you are slow like me, lol.
https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ht=Drive+shaft
__________________
1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo.
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#46
12-20-2020, 10:49 AM
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I did the CV upgrade on both my 1572 and 1772. On the 1572, prior to the upgrade It was vibrating pretty good. I found one of the brass bushings on the pump end was worn and that caused the disconnect clutch to rotate in an off-center unbalanced condition. It just started to wear the input shaft inside the pump at the first roller bearing which I needed to get replaced.
__________________
1989 - Cub Cadet 1772 1987 - Cub Cadet 1572 w/Rear PTO & Cat. 0 38" Lawn Sweeper #196483 42" L42 (Bush Hog) Rotary Cutter # 190349 45" 2-Stage Snowblower # 196364 48" Haban Rotortiller Rear PTO Driven #190356 54" SnowBlade with hydraulic Angle #196376 60" Haban Mowing Deck #196374
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#48
12-20-2020, 11:50 AM
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I just watched your video, and something's not right. It really sounds like it's only running on 2 cylinders instead of all three. It's not very smooth running and you can easily hear every single time the engine fires, which it isn't supposed to be so easy to do with a 3 cylinder engine.
I found another video of a 1772 and it sounds a LOT smoother running and you can't determine each time a cylinder fires. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D7TQggZxW9o I'm not a diesel expert but I would say that something is preventing one of the cylinders from firing.
__________________
 '70 107 with k301 engine swap '71 106 with 38" deck '70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck '61 Original with 38" timed deck '63 70 "pinkie" 1863 with 54" deck '46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub 105 x2 (parts)
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#49
12-20-2020, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
__________________
1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo.
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#50
12-20-2020, 06:18 PM
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So I ran the engine at mid-high idle for a bit, and noticed this black goo coming out of the center exhaust port... then I got out my IR camera and took a peek and lo and behold the center cylinder is notably colder than the others. A quick googling and what do I see? "Black oily goo from exhaust port most likely partially unburnt fuel mixed with soot, check valve lash, compression, injector."
So tomorrow I'll check the valve lash. I dont have a diesel comp tester yet, so putting a pin in that. But I can swap the injectors around to check that in the meantime...
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