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#41
11-06-2022, 09:18 PM
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Is it okay to seal over rust and gunk that has not been removed? The inside of the tank is still very dirty, better but still dirty. In my opinion since it is not clean it cannot be resealed.
I am going to try Permatex Liquid Metal Filler and seal from the outside.
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Ken Old fart - new to Cub Cadets Looking for a nice original low hour 1772 or 1782 
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#42
11-07-2022, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
I used it on a Farmall B gas tank 25 or so years ago and that tank has had gasoline in it constantly ever since with no leaks. I also coated the inside of the tank to prevent any rust breaking loose and getting into the carburetor. It's not hard to do on a small tank, yet can save all manner of headaches later.
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#43
11-07-2022, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
https://www.permatex.com/products/ad...xy-putty-1-oz/
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Ken Old fart - new to Cub Cadets Looking for a nice original low hour 1772 or 1782
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#44
11-15-2022, 01:55 PM
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Repaired the pin hole in the fuel tank. I used Permatex Fuel Tank Repair #84334 that I bought at NAPA $6. I patched the hole on Saturday and let it "cure" until Monday. On Monday I poured in some 2-cycle fuel/oil mix (thought might be good to coat the inside with an oily mix). I checked it this morning and no leak. Attached is a picture of the Permatex and the repair. The pin hole was in the center of the blue outline. I will leave the fuel in the tank for a few more days before I call it successful. Need to decide if I want to clean it again with Muriatic acid. Not sure what it might do to the repair.
The Permatex is a "stick" - dark brown on the outside and the inside is a core of a silver substance. The stick is similar to a Tootsie Roll. I cut off less than 1/2". Wearing latex gloves I kneaded it until it was an even consistency of light brown. I used my finger to work it into the pin hole and spread along the bottom of the tank. Repair area is about the size of a quarter. Note: before the repair, I used a wire wheel to remove rust/paint around the hole. Then I cleaned the area with an alcohol pad.
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Ken Old fart - new to Cub Cadets Looking for a nice original low hour 1772 or 1782
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#45
11-22-2022, 04:35 PM
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After a week no drips, no runs, or no errors on the fuel tank repair. I may flush it again with lacquer thinner then with clean gas. If the temperature warms enough I will reinstall the tank and make the fuel line connections. Working in an unheated building is not fun with freezing temperatures.
I ordered and received a new repo hydro release lever/flap. What position is the external lever when the internal lever is in the position shown in the photo? Does it point toward the RH brake pedal? In the picture below (courtesy of the auction site), is the external lever pointing down? or up? Thanks!
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Ken Old fart - new to Cub Cadets Looking for a nice original low hour 1772 or 1782
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#46
11-22-2022, 04:58 PM
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Hope this helps....
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1:
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#48
11-22-2022, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1:
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#49
11-22-2022, 07:03 PM
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I am confused! To pull the lever up, the flapper needs to be installed this way. First or second pic?
What pushes the valves - the barrel section or the lip?
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Ken Old fart - new to Cub Cadets Looking for a nice original low hour 1772 or 1782
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#50
11-23-2022, 11:01 AM
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Looks to me like your second picture is correct. It is the flat part farthest
from the bar of the lever that pushes down the valve release. If you look it up on the parts look up it shows what your looking for. I tried to copy the image for you but I struggle with stuff like that so it didn't work. Ken
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