CC 149 Winter Projects.

[Ambush]

I have the latches, yes.

I’m kicking myself a bit for not having the foresight to weld a suitable bracket inside the hood before I painted it.

Although I remember someone fabbing a clever hood stop that was bolted on with the hinge bolts. That will be my preferred route.

[ironman]

Member IHinIN did a beautiful 149 restoration in this thread....

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ad.php?t=18919

See page 9, Post #87 for the hood stop he made.

[Ambush]

Thanks Ironman! That’s the exact thread and hood latch I was thinking of.

I subscribed this time so I can find it when it’s time.

[Ambush]

I was trying to decide whether to do the engine or the fender pan next
I finally had to succumb to the logical answer and do both at once. Start the fender prep and paint and do the engine in between coats.

One of the PO’s changed the seat and put it on the springs backwards and every time I'd hit rough ground, I'd swear to change it at the first opportunity. Then I'd forget. Now’s my chance!!
Not sure what the seat is for but not a Cub because the PO had adapted it with several pieces of flat bar. It was made in Michigan, so not a Chinese knock off, but it needs to be replaced now anyway.

I’m amazed again how little damage this tractor has suffered in its life. About forty five minutes with a hammer and dollies pretty much had it good to go. I do have to fill in a few holes where a homemade cab was bolted on. And two bigger holes where some flashing lights were mounted.

[Ambush]

I had a couple hours today so I spent some time in the just below freezing sunshine. I tried one of those stripping disc on a 4 1/2” angle grinder and it worked very well, although it was done about the same time the fenders were. No heating or gouging on the sheet metal so that’s a big plus.

Just have to do a little bit of filler, sand that, then ready for paint.

[Billy-O]

Originally Posted by Ambush

I had a couple hours today so I spent some time in the just below freezing sunshine. I tried one of those stripping disc on a 4 1/2” angle grinder and it worked very well, although it was done about the same time the fenders were. No heating or gouging on the sheet metal so that’s a big plus.

Just have to do a little bit of filler, sand that, then ready for paint.

Looks good... What brand stripping disc did you use?

[Ambush]

^^^. I used the purple one which is silicone carbide. I just picked up a couple ceramic ones to try to. It seems the new stripping gels you buy are pretty ineffective and very expensive. Basically anything that says “Eco” or “Enviro” on it is going to be useless.

[Ambush]

The under side is pretty good and that is getting scuffed and painted

The top side has lots of scratches that go right to the metal and the edges are more nicks than paint. Stripping was definitely the lesser of the evils.

This is just a working tractor and it’s just a home grown paint job. I call it 10/10. Looks pretty decent at ten feet or ten mph. For the most part I’m rolling on oil base Tremclad with Xylene thinner and Majic hardener.

[garydee]

All and all, your accomplishments thus far will be good preparation for doing a "show tractor" at some point. Keep up the good work and keep warm!

[ironman]

Originally Posted by garydee

Ambush...The paint on your tractor doesn't look so bad that it requires stripping everything down to bare metal, unless you are doing penance taking all that paint off!

I commend your effort to do a superb job restoring your tractor, however, you would do well to connect with a local body shop to learn how professionals in the business handle paint problems when refinishing automobiles. All that paint stripper and dust isn't good for your lungs either.

The factory paint you are removing is likely more durable and long lasting than anything you could spray on. All that is needed is grind and feather the rusted areas and scuff sand where the paint is solid. Spray bare metal with a self etching epoxy primer, scuff sand and finish with 3 or 4 coats of a good enamel paint mixed with hardener.

Unless of course you are going to put your tractor in a museum and never use it. In that case you might want to do a base coat clear coat finish!

Practically every vintage Cub that you will ever see that has not been retouched will have either surface rust or rust bubbles coming through the factory paint. This proves five things:
1. They did not prep the bare metal.
2. They did not primer the bare metal.
4. The units are moving down the assembly line and they barely get enough paint to cover.
5. The paint they use is crap.
All that with intent to lower cost.

So you are suggesting that Ambush just sugar coat the factory flaws and a year or two from now it will look like he shouldn't have even bothered.

It's his tractor, not yours,
It's his project, not yours,
and he's spending his money, not yours.

He obviously cares about the quality of his work and for you to suggest that he seek professional advice is insulting. Man you got balls big as an elephant.

It ain't Ambush that needs the professional help.