100 resto

[tubbyfirefighter]

hey matt, why dont you tell us how to make that electro rust remover, i want to try it out but dont know how or what liquids to use?? thanks in advance

[Matt G.]

tubbyfirefighter-

Here's the text of an email that I sent to another forum member that was asking how it was done.


You need some sort of plastic container that the items you want to clean will fit in, an older battery charger (the newer automatic ones will think it's a short and cut out), a piece of steel (NOT stainless steel) that you can sacrifice, and something to clean. You'll also need either washing soda or TSP (Tri-sodium phosphate) to mix into the water to make it conduct electricity and clean the metal. I've heard TSP works a little better...I'm probably going to try it in my larger tank. The first one has washing soda and it works well, but parts will flash rust when removed if you don't scrape/wire wheel them immediately afterwards.

I use old mower deck blades as the sacrificial electrodes. Take an angle grinder and grind the rust off of the sacrificial metal so that bare metal is exposed. Rig up a piece of wood or something to hold it in the water, with a small portion above the water so you have something to connect the battery charger to. You don't want the alligator clamps of the charger to touch the water. Clean up a little spot on the part you want to clean that'll stick out above the water so you have something to connect the battery charger to. Next, fill the container you want to use with whatever amount of water you need, and then mix in washing soda or TSP until it'll no longer dissolve. Put both pieces in the container with the water mixture, making sure that enough is sticking out so you can connect the battery charger. Also make sure they aren't touching underwater (or anywhere, for that matter).
Now, connect the battery charger up before you plug it in. The polarity is very important and is as follows: POSITIVE clamp goes on the sacrificial metal, and the NEGATIVE clamp goes on the part to be cleaned. After it's connected, plug it in. The battery charger should show a current of 1-3 amps (or more if you have a larger battery charger). You'll see bubbles coming out of the water near both pieces of metal. Make note of where the current starts...if it drops, you'll have to clean the sacrificial electrode. Make sure you do this in a ventilated area with no flames or sparks, as hydrogen is what's bubbling off of one of the pieces of metal.
After a few hours, you can remove the part from the mixture (unplug the charger first) and scrape off the paint and black areas with a razor blade and then wire wheel. The rusty areas turn black from the carbon that was in the steel that rusted away, and you need to remove it before painting, which is the reason for the razor blade and wire wheeling.
It's the easiest way I have found to clean parts.

[young enthusiest]

matt, I think you ought to add that to MR. bedell's post in restoration tips. under rust removal. I think this goes into greater detail.

[Matt G.]

I built the larger electryolysis tank today...only put 20 gallons of water in, but needed a whole box of TSP and a lot of washing soda to get it to conduct electricity. I've got one rear wheel about 90% done, and I did some sheetmetal stuff in the smaller tank. I've gotten more efficient with the zinc plating...I plated as many bolts today as I have total up to this point, and the finish has gotten better. I can now plate 22 bolts at once and do 2 batches per day. Now, I've just got to start plating the other objects. This is getting easier, but it's still very labor-intensive. I have to attend to it every hour for about 10 hours to get 2 batches done.

[Matt G.]

I've slowly been cleaning stuff up for the 100. I placed 2 orders for engine parts today, and I need to get decals on the way ASAP. I drove up into the cheddar curtain today to pick up another K241 that'll be donating its oil pan and some sheetmetal to this tractor. I have a few large things to clean/sandblast, and I'm going into town to buy paint and take in the starter/generator to have the terminal replaced and the coils removed so I can paint the housing. So hopefully we'll have some PRIMER/PAINT pictures in the next couple of days...!...

[Matt G.]

Finally got about 1/3 of the 100 primed tonight...
I'm pretty impressed with this PPG Shop Line stuff so far.

[ACecil]

Great job Matt! Keep up the good work.

[JayBrd]

Shop line is nice shooting stuff.. Almost fool proof in ways.

Looks GREAT!!

[RPalmer]

Matt,

It's looking pretty nice. I love a good running machine but the satisfaction of a good paint job would be hard to beat. BTW... How did you decide to clean your block? Keep the pictures coming. - Peace -

[Diz Jr.]

Great pictures Matt G
Parts are really looking nice