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  #51  
Old 05-31-2010, 03:11 AM
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scoutkid scoutkid is offline
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So, pulled the top end off the motor, was PRAYING I would find something 'easy' to fix. I think I did...

The first thing I noticed when I pulled off the head was a nice little line across the combustion chamber of the head. A crack! This explains a LOT.

Methinks the PO probably had the head crack, thought there was not enough power, ran the motor speed up, overheated the motor and blew the rod! I was so busy pulling the motor apart and seeing the OBVIOUS problem - the broken rod - that I missed the hairline crack in the head.

Also, this all lines up to my experience once I got it running. The head, being aluminum, was nice and tight while it was cool. Once it heated up, the crack opened and the incredible knocking I heard was basically the explosion in the combustion chamber!!

With the head off, I cranked over the motor and it looks like I didn't damage any valves, pistons, or the rod.

Next question: who has a GOOD K301 head that they want to part with?!
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  #52  
Old 05-31-2010, 04:23 AM
Methos Methos is offline
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Sweet some good news for you! Check out our sponsers up top of the page. I think I saw one listed on Cub Classics site tonight. Give Chris a shout he's most helpful. Keep us posted on how this works out for you.
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  #53  
Old 06-07-2010, 11:24 AM
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Thanks Methos for the lead on the head. I got with Chris and have a new/used head coming my way. FYI - you can see from the first pic why I didn't notice the crack.

In my haste of reassembly I cleaned the head and plopped it on. Hopefully this will fix my problem for good!
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  #54  
Old 06-07-2010, 11:31 AM
Methos Methos is offline
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Your welcome! Glad I could help out.
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  #55  
Old 06-07-2010, 12:14 PM
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Matt G. Matt G. is offline
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That crack may not have even extended all the way through the head until you ran it the first time after the rebuild. The better compression after the rebuild might have caused the complete failure of the part. It may not have been making enough compression before to completely break it. Or it just finally fatigued enough and cracked the rest of the way. Either way, that's an odd thing to have happen. That's the first time I've seen something like that before.
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  #56  
Old 06-18-2010, 11:02 PM
1250cubcadet 1250cubcadet is offline
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I would try ebay for parts its worth it. Look for a seller with 99-100% feedback these are the sellers in my opinion that sell the best parts, Good Luck!!
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  #57  
Old 06-22-2010, 05:49 PM
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Well, got the new/used head from Chris (thanks!). Installed it with a new head gasket.

Turned the motor over, still a REALLY loud clanking, then snap and no clanking... busted the brand new rod....

Now, i have worked on a lot of different types of equipment, for a long time. I don't understand what on earth would cause this problem. I slowly backed away from the tractor because I didn't want it/me to get hurt I will pull the motor AGAIN this weekend and post my findings...
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  #58  
Old 06-22-2010, 06:08 PM
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TEET TEET is offline
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Sorry to hear about your problems....backing away is a good idea for a bit!:biggrin2.gif:

Was the undersized rod fitted by the machine shop that underground the crank? Sounds like something was binding. My 682 did the same thing when I installed a "supposedly" freshly rebuilt K301 into it. The nuts ended up backing off the connecting rod studs and the rod was slapping around on the crank loosely. I have also noticed on some rods, that the stem, or "I-beam "section of it will hit the bottom of the cylinder wall when it rotates...most of the time you can see where the rod manufacturer has ground away a small amount of the casting so it will clear, but others I have rebuilt just plain hit the bottom of the cylinder. I've had to remove rods and file away a bit of the casting on the rod. I usually see this on lower quality Stens rods.

Let us know what you find, and good luck

Jeff (teet)
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