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#51
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It has been many months since my last post. Sorry for letting this drag on forever. Since mid April I have redoubled my efforts to finish the K241 rebuild and and advance my project to at least a point where I have a running engine. Since then I have made three attempts to have a successful first startup. During the first attempt, I put the engine back into the frame of the tractor and attached the necessary components such as the starter generator, carburetor linkage, carburetor, coil, ignition wiring and gas tank to make it happen. However, the connector for the wire that runs from the points to the coil was too bulky to allow the points cover to fit on. Also, I noticed that the gas tank was leaking from a seam on the underside. So, that put a halt to the work. On the second attempt, I bought a good soldering iron and with that, fixed the leak in the tank. also, I changed the connector on the points wire so that it wasn't as bulky and would fit under the points cover. However, upon trying a startup, the engine would not fire when I cranked it. I checked for spark and that was good. However, the plug was dry. So, I figured there was a problem with the carburetor and I removed it for inspection. Removed the float and cleaned needle seat and jets with carb cleaner. Put it all back together and checked my manual for the proper low and high speed screw settings. Upon doing this it became apparent to me that I either misunderstood or got bad information from the internet for the low speed screw setting that I originally used. I'm now pretty sure that the 1 and 1/2 turns I started out with for the low speed screw was not supplying enough fuel for the start up. So, I set the low speed screw to 2 and 1/2 turns and the high speed screw to 2 turns as specified in the manual, reinstalled the carburetor and attempted another start. This time it fired up and ran for about 2 minutes before I shut it down (see youtube link). That was because the starter/generator belt came off. Anyway, it was good to hear it run, even though it was running rough and for only two minutes. I will have to put more time into trying to set the engine to run more smoothly and at least get to the half hour runtime point for the break in (Thank goodness Only Cub Cadets has an extensive collection of knowledge to draw upon). After that, I will remove the engine from the tractor so I can focus on the steering and brakes. Hope this posting finds everyone well. Ross
https://youtu.be/k4ePLsFLmUU |
#52
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Great video 👍! Thanks!
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#53
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Ok, now you gotta get that carb adjusted before you wash down the cylinder from to much fuel. The settings in the book are just to get it started, it's running way to rich. Turn the main jet in. It will start running better but keep going until it starts to run rough again (too lean). Note the position of the needle and back it out until it runs rough again (too rich) and note the needle position. The setting is in the middle, or a little bit to the rich side of the middle. Then you can adjust the idle screw. Then you may have to go back and readjust the main a little. Good luck
Just realized this is 2 months old, maybe it will still help |
#54
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No problems, I got a lot to learn and every bit helps.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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