Basket Case 1772 Re-Assembly: All Help is Appreciated!

[72-149]

Originally Posted by Oak

72....I don't like the cold either, that's why I moved south. I never thought about a dry cell batt but it sounds like a good idea and I will check on the next one I need. I just use a good $50 Deka and a tender and don't have any problems. Can you get those at a regular batt supply store? I was just letting him know that you don't need a gigantic batt in a diesel like some people think.

i think they can order them or you can off line at they'r site . free shipping & the warranty is top noch too

[ACecil]

Nice finds! Thanks for showing them to us.

[red56turbo]

Nice finds on the pto and 3 point. You scored price wise on them. Sounds like your 1772 is coming along nicely.

[cub123]

Originally Posted by Red Paint

Evening all!

Well, I don't have much to say update wise. I have been rather busy with school, so I haven't really gotten anything done to the Cub that I have wanted to.

I have a few questions if anyone would be willing to answer them:
1. For some reason, I can no longer crank the Cub with the key. It will charge the glowplugs and run the fuel pump, but will not crank the starter when turned to that position. I can start the tractor perfectly easy with a length of wire jumping from the battery to the starter signal spade. I do not understand why this would happen all the sudden. Any tips on where to start? The seat interlock was missing when I bought the tractor, so I have the wires nutted together. Is this wrong?

2. Today I started the tractor just for the heck of it, and it started and ran just fine (probably ran for five minutes). However about 15 minutes after shutdown, I noticed a good-sized puddle of hytrans in my deck. It is dripping down from the column somewhere I believe. I didn't feel like tearing into it tonight, so I will mess with it tomorrow on break. I am hoping it is just a lose fitting and not a major issue; can't really afford a column rebuild right now.

3. I have a line on a steel rear end, if it will work. A local small-engine/lawnmower shop closed down, and I happen to know a relative of the late owner. In their lot they have a Cub Cadet 1200, and a 122.

The 122 has a belt-driven hydraulic generator to lift the deck and sleeve hitch rod. I thought this was kind of odd on something that old and small. Is this unusual or worth anything? I didn't think to look if it had a creeper gear. Photo is attached.

The 1200 has a steel rear end without steering brakes. Can this be used in a swap in my 1772? I am sorry for my ignorance concerning this, but this is local and hopefully rather affordable. Photo is attached.

I get the feeling I can buy the rear end, but the fellow acted kind of odd towards the 122, pretty much saying I would have to buy the whole thing. It is rather rough--I should have snapped a picture of it but didn't think to.

Sorry for the rambling post, but figured you guys could answer my questions best. Thanks all, and have a good night.
-Red Paint

Both the 1200 and 122 are gear drive, so neither rear end will work. The hydraulic lift is an original option and can be worth about $300. If your steering box is leaking, which it's more likely than a loose fitting it's about $60 for a JD rebuild kit.

[ACecil]

That's great! Glad it was an easy fix for you.

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by Red Paint

UPDATE:
. . .

Still have no crank. Is there a particular way to test my key switch? I was just going to testlight the output spade that sends power to the starter solenoid.

I may try to purchase the 122. Cool little tractor to see if I can get running. Otherwise maybe a reasonable part-out.

Thanks,
Red Paint

I think the 122 would be a great tractor to restore. When I get done with my 782 and my 149, I would like to add a 122 to the fleet. They don't have any plastic on them, and a 12 HP gear drive is a powerful combination, I'm told.

Can't say much about the starting issue, other than to note that your tractor probably has at least one safety interlock on it. Even the old tractors have the "Neutral Start Switch" actuated by the brake pedal, and all the electric PTO models have an interlock to be sure the driven equipment is not cranked with the key. Later models got even fancier; some have not one, but two seat switches, a reverse switch and a reverse relay.

I just checked the wiring diagram, I believe your tractor is one that has the one seat switch, a reverse switch, and a reverse relay. I've tried to diagram the logic of this circuit before, since its operation is a bit confusing at first glance, although it is easier to understand than the circuit which uses two seat switches.

Anyway, I've included a snapshot of the wiring diagram (available in PDF elsewhere on the web) and my ladder logic of how I think your PTO circuit works. I've never seen a tractor with dual electric PTOs, so I'm not sure how the "Jumper" works. The key point is that the START position turns on the PTO through the Reverse Relay provided that you're on the seat and the tractor is not in reverse. Once the PTO switch is placed in the RUN position, the Reverse relay is latched in; the power originally available only from terminal E (with PTO Switch in the START position) is now fed back from the Normally Open contacts of the Reverse Relay through terminal A to terminal B and finally the coil for the Reverse Relay when the PTO Switch is in the RUN position.

Wait a minute, how did we get on this topic? Oh yes, you are having trouble cranking the motor, and that got me started on interlocks. Well, I'm going to leave my post up for reference and comments.

Good luck on both your 1772 and 122 --two GREAT tractors, you lucky dog!

Jeremiah

[FrankF3]

What happens when you try to crank and it does not turn over? Do you see the oil pressure light lit? Do you hear the starter solenoid pull in or do you just get the oil pressure light and nothing else? I had a problem with my 782D that would lite the oil pressure light and pull in the starter solenoid, but not turn the engine over. I ended up throwing a new solenoid, then a new starter. Each replacement worked for 2-3 weeks then it back to same to the same old drill. The key switch and battery and battery terminals were replaced and in every case, worked for a couple of weeks and then started mis-behaving again. The LAST thing I replaced was the wiring harness, and to my relief, it has not repeated the no start once since then. If you have no oil pressure light when trying to start, check the circuit breaker that is located next to the voltage regulator. There was a recall on my 1572 where the attaching wires on the circuit breaker were held on with one nut each. As the wires slightly loosened, they heated and melted the mounting plastic making a worse connection. The fix was to sandwich the ring terminals between two nuts and tighten one against the other assuring a good connection.
If you have no solenoid action, then you could have a safety switch issue. Check for good connections at the reverse safety switch that is located on the backside of the dash right along the travel of the FWD-REV lever, a loose connection at the brake switch located on the bracket next to the brake shaft on the underside of the tractor. Finally check as listed previously for a broken or loose connection for the seat safety switch (My 1572 has the wires going from the seat through the access plate by the tunnel cover) , and the PTO relay and PTO switch for loose connections. It is possible the PTO switch could be on or on the way out. Sorry for being sooooo long winded......

[Oak]

Red, I think the problem is the cat 0 hitch and rear pto. Take it off and send it to me and I will inspect it...

Just kidding. Like the others said, these are pretty simple. I would also undo both ground wires, clean the area down to bare metal and redo them, same at the starter. You need a good digital volt/ohm meter too if you don't have one. I think you can get a good Fluke meter that will last you a lifetime pretty cheap. You either have a bad starter, connection or a failed sefety switch. Good luck!

[FrankF3]

So the current state as you describe it now with the readings you took, does the engine turn over? If not, I would have a buddy hold the key in the turning over position and see if you have power to the SMALL solenoid wire and work back from there.

[ken6x6]

-Red Paint, to bad we weren't closer to each other. id be making you an offer right now... good luck with your Farmall project.