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#51
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20 ton press maxed out then heated tines to orange still had to press all the way off but finally apart-now for reassembly.
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#52
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This one has been a battle. Sounds like you have it on the run now.
![]() I'm thinking it may be a good idea to pull the tines off when your done using these things, clean the tube out and put some never seize on them before reassembling. I got lucky on my 1A and the 400, both came off with a big puller and a 1/2" impact wrench.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
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#53
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I had 3/4 impact on a puller, tried a torque multiplier, all with the tube orange, we put snow on the inner shaft to cool it, and nada. Finally took off some tines, put it in the press and back to orange. It gave up then.
I hope to never need the tines off again, but they will be slathered with neversieze. I wonder if a plug in the tube end would help. |
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#54
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You do good work,keep it up.
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Up to 533 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
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#55
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Great thread!! Thanks for documenting your work and especially for listing part #s for bearings and other parts you replaced. This type of thread really helps others who are trying to follow in your footsteps.
I have a #2 tiller I got with a 1450 a little over a year ago. It spent some time outside and looks like it had a hard life. The 1450 was a basket case when i got it. I haven't had a chance to get into the tiller but it will need to be gone through completely before it gets any significant use. I appreciate this thread and the work you put into documenting your restoration.
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#56
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Does anyone know where I can get a set of decals for a #2 tiller? I would like to restore my tiller and it wouldn't be complete without decals.
Is there a place that makes decals? I would love to reproduce the serial # decal on my tiller before it is stripped of paint. |
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#57
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Charlie (Cub Cadet Specialties) carries the INTERNATIONAL decal across the back. I'm taping off the serial # decal and leaving it. I've found some neat safety decals on ePay, just a universal warning tag with a hand mangled up in some gears.
If one has been out and abused, I would definately get some lube in there or rebuild it. Yours looks real nice though, Bob. I hope the part #s can help somebody out in the future-the bearings are kinda high for American, the Chineese ones are cheap though. thanks Lew this thing is right up there with dozers and trackhoes in difficulty. |
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#58
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I think my tiller saw little use but spent a lot of time in the winter rains of the San Joaquin Valley here in California. The tines have almost no wear.
I need to take the gearbox apart and check everything out, clean and lube before I press it into service. Today I was inspired and I put the belts on the tiller and fired it up for the first time since I got it. The long belt has a cut in it so I didn't think I had long to see it work - maybe a minute before it snapped. To my surprise it held long enough to till some dirt. It works great! I can see how a GD may be better for tilling. That tiller really started pushing the tractor and the hydro transmission offered little resistance. I am happy to see it work. |
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#59
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Pulled my gearbox apart, was really surprised-looks new inside, gonna replace the seals and grease. National seal #471643 for the gearbox seals, I'll use the 00 grease in it also.
The tines on mine are pretty beat, the end ones wore pretty bad where they rubbed the cover. I'm looking at some on ePay for a Troy-built, they look close but hard to tell if they will fit. |
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#60
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Here is the best deal I could find for tiller tines. Scroll down to #7 & #8
http://ihccw.com/tillers.html Cub says they are NLA but they are not as long as you know how to order them. May have found a better deal WM-1030850P TINE KIT-LH/RH from great outdoor $16.92 http://www.greatoutdoorpowersports.c.../WM-1030850P/1 Looks like you get a right and a left for $16.92
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
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