Kohler k241a Rebuild - Page 6

bocephus1991 · #51 02-06-2016, 04:59 PM

Sandblasting, wire brush sandpaper for rust and paint stripper or sandblaster or sandpaper for paint. They make a citri-strip that's not flammable or awful smelling. Let them soak and use a stiff brush or a aggressive scuff pad. Then wash with hot soapy water and dry off immediately, so it doesn't rust up. Then prime and paint. You said fuel pump cover, think you meant cam cover.

J-Mech · #52 02-06-2016, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bocephus1991

You said fuel pump cover, think you meant cam cover.

They have both. Right next to the cam cover is the fuel pump spot. If it doesn't use one, there is a cover.

Bigsauce · #53 02-08-2016, 05:27 PM

I wire wheeled the governor arm and it came out decent looking so I'll do the same to the other parts. Do you guys have recommendations on a rebuild kit? I saw an ebay kit people were talking about on this forum, can anyone link to it? The machine shop wants the piston before they overbore just to make sure the clearances and everything is proper. They said a .010 overbore will do.

J-Mech · #54 02-08-2016, 05:42 PM

The seller you want is bakt4kids. His store is called "The Man's One Stop Shop".

http://stores.ebay.com/The-Mans-One-...=p4634.c0.m322

bocephus1991 · #55 02-08-2016, 10:04 PM

Yes get him the piston! I got a kit with valves too, had the machine shop install them. I took the rings too. The aftermarket kits are good kits nothing wrong with them. Nowadays their as good as a kohler, in my opinion. Listen to j-mech he's knows what he's talking about.

Bigsauce · #56 02-11-2016, 05:18 PM

Alright so I purchased the kit you linked to Jmech, that was exactly what I was looking for. Hopefully everything else goes smoothly once I get the block back. The owner of the machine shop told me he could put the piston in the bore for me, might take him up on this since that's the part I'm most worried about.

J-Mech · #57 02-11-2016, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigsauce

Alright so I purchased the kit you linked to Jmech, that was exactly what I was looking for. Hopefully everything else goes smoothly once I get the block back. The owner of the machine shop told me he could put the piston in the bore for me, might take him up on this since that's the part I'm most worried about.

So, he is going to put the governor, valves, cam, crank and piston in? That's fine if he does, but those parts have to go in first....

If your going to let him do all that, just as well let him do the rear cover also and set the crank end play. Then all you have to do is bolt all the parts on the outside and tune it.

Bigsauce · #58 02-13-2016, 03:05 PM

I'm gonna do it myself, it was just a thought I was entertaining. Should be pretty straight forward right, just oil it up and compress the rings, and it should slide right in? anyway I got the new crankshaft bearing in today along with the rebuild kit. One thing I noticed was that the new bearing has a ring on its outside perimeter, the old one doesn't but has a groove where it would go. I'll have a pic of it up in a bit, should that ring be there or should I try to remove it.

Yosemite Sam · #59 02-13-2016, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigsauce

Should be pretty straight forward right, just oil it up and compress the rings, and it should slide right in?

You do realize that you need to "fit" the rings in the bore, measure the end gap, grind them, fit them again, measure and grind again if needed until the end gap is right, before you ever put the rings on the piston?

Bigsauce · #60 02-13-2016, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam

You do realize that you need to "fit" the rings in the bore, measure the end gap, grind them, fit them again, measure and grind again if needed until the end gap is right, before you ever put the rings on the piston?

Yeah I'll be following the Kohler guide, I was just referring to the part About slipping it in. Here's a picture of the bearing.