1811's turn in the shop - Page 6

PaulS · #51 01-05-2017, 10:33 AM

Having something solid when pounding is a must. Using another tractor to make it solid is great thinking.

olds45512 · #52 01-05-2017, 04:51 PM

Check out my thread before you put it back together.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ight=rockshaft

Oak · #53 01-05-2017, 05:28 PM

Good job John. I had an 1811 that was rusted together too. It also took me several hours beating it with a 20lb sledge. I took an old 3 foot long 1" blower shaft and beat it from the rear and then beat it back from the front. Back and forth, back and forth, back and forth, probably not the proper procedure but it worked.

john hall · #54 01-05-2017, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olds45512

Check out my thread before you put it back together.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ight=rockshaft

Good idea on the grease fittings. I'll add 1, if I don't forget. I got so much of this thing apart right now its driving me nuts.

john hall · #55 01-05-2017, 09:26 PM

Not much progress today. I did get the pins out of the rockshaft. I decided to drill the holes out to 9/16 and turn the new pins down as needed. Going to make them protrude out about another .100" so I can get a washer between the lift links and the cotter pin.

john hall · #56 01-15-2017, 12:53 AM

Made new pins for the rockshaft. I made them about .100 longer so I can be sure to get a nice heavy washer on there between the clip pin and deck hanger. Don't you just hate lawnmowers where you can't do that? When I knocked out the old pins it appeared the holes had been punched in the rockshaft. Being a machinist that didn't set well with me. I drilled them out to 9/16 and made the new pins a "tap" fit. Also left a slightly larger head on the pins to serve as a shoulder--hey it helped locate them for welding. I don't know if I did it or if it was factory, both arms on the rockshaft were out of line. I had to beat one around on the anvil, the other I had to twist with a pipe wrench. That one has been twisted for a long time as it had bad wear on the side. Got the rockshaft installed (used never-seize) and put the fenders back on. Also installed a clutch pedal safety switch. Dealt with some poor running issues with the engine and tinkered on the deck some more.

yeeter · #57 01-15-2017, 09:44 AM

Never seize is a good idea, I should have used that on mine... As is a grease fitting. I simply greased it.

Part of the lift mechanism arm 'floats'. (or is supposed to, mine was frozen solid). My understanding is that if pinned/locked then a blade could apply downward pressure. And could also cause other damage.

I am wondering when the link would be used in the pinned state? (all I ever run on mine is a blade or thrower, so wasnt sure if I care how free it is)

Anybody use theirs in pinned mode?

john hall · #58 01-15-2017, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yeeter

Never seize is a good idea, I should have used that on mine... As is a grease fitting. I simply greased it.

Part of the lift mechanism arm 'floats'. (or is supposed to, mine was frozen solid). My understanding is that if pinned/locked then a blade could apply downward pressure. And could also cause other damage.

I am wondering when the link would be used in the pinned state? (all I ever run on mine is a blade or thrower, so wasnt sure if I care how free it is)

Anybody use theirs in pinned mode?

This one was set up in locked position--uses a bolt. No rear hitch but a bagger plate. The deck was off when I got it but I am assuming all the guy did was mow with it. Not really certain why he had loaded ags tires unless yard was hilly. When we pulled the rear end out I didn't see any marks that may indicate a hitch was ever on it. Too far South for a blower but maybe a blade.

jaynjeep · #59 01-15-2017, 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john hall

Made new pins for the rockshaft. I made them about .100 longer so I can be sure to get a nice heavy washer on there between the clip pin and deck hanger. Don't you just hate lawnmowers where you can't do that? When I knocked out the old pins it appeared the holes had been punched in the rockshaft. Being a machinist that didn't set well with me. I drilled them out to 9/16 and made the new pins a "tap" fit. Also left a slightly larger head on the pins to serve as a shoulder--hey it helped locate them for welding. I don't know if I did it or if it was factory, both arms on the rockshaft were out of line. I had to beat one around on the anvil, the other I had to twist with a pipe wrench. That one has been twisted for a long time as it had bad wear on the side. Got the rockshaft installed (used never-seize) and put the fenders back on. Also installed a clutch pedal safety switch. Dealt with some poor running issues with the engine and tinkered on the deck some more.

Nice looking pins John!

Great idea... looks like something cub should've done

john hall · #60 01-21-2017, 10:11 PM

Got back on the 1811 today for a little while. Last time we had it running, well it sucked.

pulled the carb again, everything still looked OK. Talked up the problem on and off forum, suspected coil. I checked and one wire had more output than the other--huge difference actually. Ordered a el-cheapo coil. Pulled the engine today, washed it while it was out--dirt buildup wasn't too bad, a few nut hulls from mice. Pic is before its bath.

I do have a question, the parts book shows the engine is supposed to have 4 spacers between it and the mounting plate. It only had 2 (at the front) so we made 2 more for the back. It looks level anyway, are we correct that it should have 4?

Didn't have time to hook up anything other than getting it bolted back in. Maybe 1/2 hr's work to fire it up then I'll know if coil solved anything. Spark output is now equal on both wires--and strong.