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  #51  
Old 04-14-2017, 12:02 AM
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Almost there. I got the new valve covers on it. Tomorrow I am off work so I plan to put the muffler and intake back on and give it another spray down to get the rest of the baked on crud off. Then reinstall and fire it up and check for leaks. I'm just going to pretend I didn't notice that little bit of crank end play for now. I have to mow!!!

IMG_3251.jpg
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  #52  
Old 04-14-2017, 03:46 PM
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well, this just keeps getting nuttier and nuttier. Everything is back together. I took it for a spin, and I am still leaking oil in the top near the governor shaft. That seal definitely was shot, and the new one seemed pretty snug. I think it might be leaking from the oil sensor now that everything is shined up and clean and I can see. I have another issue that has developed. I'm getting a lot of oil in the inside of the air filter from the breather tube. I cleaned out the breather and put the new blue material in there and put everything back together carefully. So either I screwed that up, or I should not use 10W30 in it? I have some SAE30 here. It's not over filled, it's right at the full line, and it's not burning any oil. Compression is good too. It runs perfect. I read somewhere to put a balloon over the oil fill tube and if it blows up that's bad. I did this, and mine sucks down like a vacuum.
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  #53  
Old 04-14-2017, 05:13 PM
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Did you inspect or replace the breather reed, part # 26 circled in red?

26 2440203S Breather Reed $1.31
27 6601804S Reed Retainer $2.48

If you suspect the oil sentry you can remove it and put a pipe plug in it for testing.
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2264 with 54 GT deck
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JD317 dump truck
BX2670 with FEL
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  #54  
Old 04-17-2017, 11:13 AM
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The oil leak problem is solved, by taking the crank case breather apart and putting it back together and putting two orings on top of the governor shaft seal under the washer and R pin. The engine runs and sounds awesome. Now I'm back to looking for the rear end leak. I removed the fender and gas tank and degreased and pressure washed everything back on the transmission. I have cardboard under it to see where it drips from now that it's squeaky clean. I found out the hard way that I need to replace the fuel lines on the tank because one of them cracked just moving the tank. There is one bolt on the right side going through the frame into the transmission that does not match the other three... So I am suspicious of that area for the leak. But with the evenly distributed coating of grease infused dirt under the gas tank before the cleanup, I don't know if the leak was coming from one place. I can see a little bit of what looks like red permatex gasket squeezed out between the axle housings and the main part of the transmission. Is that from the factory? I am wondering if someone had it out and apart before.
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  #55  
Old 04-17-2017, 11:28 AM
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Post pics of what your talking about. If it has red silicone on it someone has been into it, factory stuff is gray.
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  #56  
Old 04-17-2017, 12:20 PM
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I'm at work now and don't have a picture of it, so I found a webfind picture, with arrows. They point to where I have red gasket material.
s-l1600.jpg
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  #57  
Old 04-17-2017, 12:56 PM
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They come with a thick black gasket between the case and axle tubes and some kind of adhesive that is a PITA to get off when you remove the tubes, ask me how I know. Anyway if you have red silicone in that area someone was inside it after it left the factory.
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  #58  
Old 04-17-2017, 02:30 PM
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So there is at least a chance that re-seal job is what is leaking and not the bolts. If it is that and not as simple as the bolts... Please just be the bolts...
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  #59  
Old 04-17-2017, 03:19 PM
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I can't see it from here so I can't say.
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  #60  
Old 04-17-2017, 09:32 PM
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Here are pics of my transmission, it might be a little hard to see the red gasket material. The second picture shows the oddball bolt.

20170417_221820012_iOS.jpg
20170417_221827737_iOS.jpg

I'll have to run it to see where it leaks because it doesn't seem to be leaking just sitting. It seems to leave a puddle after I drive it.

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