105 restoration - Page 7

steved · #61 01-25-2015, 06:53 PM

The K241 service manual. Page 1.6 in the general specs but there is a large warning on page 6.31 not to exceed 3600. I do recall the 3800 no load, 3600 load somewhere in the 105 manual but deferred to the engine manufacturer after I noticed the difference.

J-Mech · #62 01-25-2015, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steved

The K241 service manual. Page 1.6 in the general specs but there is a large warning on page 6.31 not to exceed 3600. I do recall the 3800 no load, 3600 load somewhere in the 105 manual but deferred to the engine manufacturer after I noticed the difference.

I'm sorry, I didn't specify. I know all about the specs, I've never seen in any cub cadet book it saying anything about 3800 no load, 3600 under load. I'm gonna say it's not in there. I have a 105 owners manual, but not here where I am. I'll check into that.... I'm pretty sure it doesn't state that.

Kohler says 3600 no load....... but, we know better.

steved · #63 01-25-2015, 07:16 PM

It's in the 1x 4/5 manual. Page 1.3. Am I understanding it right? Center column is 105.

J-Mech · #64 01-26-2015, 01:56 PM

By God.... it does say that! Checked my book, says the same thing. I never looked in the owners manual. Good deal!

steved · #65 02-04-2015, 10:48 AM

I thought I would give an update and ask a carb. question. After pondering over olds45512 and sawdustdad's comments I broke down and bought a NOS tin for the 105. I've gone this far with the tractor and didn't want the sticker to start peeling off years down the road. By then who knows if I could find a NOS tin at all. It definitely was not cheap. Thanks for both of your comments!
Right now I'm waiting for some misc. hardware to come back from the platers. Various parts that would not look good painted, PTO turnbuckle rods, battery hold down rods, etc. I've got the engine running and sounding very good. I tried to adjust the carb for the WOT setting. From the preset, two turns out, I can rotate the high speed needle more than 180 degrees, CW or CCW, and I do hear much difference in the engine. I was expecting a change in the engine around 90 degrees or so. This original carb does have new gaskets,fuel inlet seat and valve. When I pulled the old main fuel needle, I noticed it has a slight crook on the tip. Not sure if you can see it in the picture. My question is, replace both the needle and the fuel inlet seat or just the needle? Do you think the bent needle would have messed up the seat? Also, would this cause the carb to not adjust properly or do I have another issue to look at? Thanks. I also am posting a picture of the tiller teardown. It is a real bear getting these tines off the main shaft! One section left to do.

steved · #66 02-11-2015, 10:09 AM

I've got a question about the PTO. PTO has been rebuilt, new bearing, springs... gapped the brass button 1/64". New drive belt to the rear gearbox. It is very tight even with the front pulleys at the end of their adjustment. I'm assuming it will loosen up with use. Whether I have the lever engaged or not the PTO seems to always be engaged. Holding a board against the pulley on the gearbox it never slips. I believe I installed the PTO correctly per the manual and rebuilt it correctly using the gauge. I remember somewhere on this site about where just the weight or friction of the belt is enough for the PTO to not turn? Something doesn't seem right. Can someone give me some advice as to what may be wrong? Thanks!

olds45512 · #67 02-11-2015, 10:20 AM

When the PTO is disengaged it need drag to stop the pulley from turning like a mower deck, in not sure if the tiller gearbox has enough drag to stop it or not. If you wedged a block of wood in the rear pulley and it still turned I would think something is wrong, have you tried tightening up the gap on the wear button so it presses the clutch a little more? I know you said you adjusted it properly but sometimes they need just a little more push to fully disengage especially when everything is new.

olds45512 · #68 02-11-2015, 10:23 AM

Another thing I've seen is the plate that holds the engagement handle back being worn down so its not holding the handle back as far as it should.

steved · #69 02-11-2015, 10:52 AM

Thanks for the quick reply. Yes we had tried a closer gap .003" and it didn't stop the PTO so we moved it back to .016". I just ran back out there and put a board on the pulley again. If I put one foot on the board and really push down the PTO stops spinning. If I let the lever out, of course, you cannot stop the pulley. So I guess it's working? It just seems like its going to take a alot of resistance from the tiller to make it disengage.

steved · #70 02-25-2015, 09:41 AM

I wanted to share some pictures of the steering cap I got from Craig. My daughter painted it last week. Craig did an awesome job machining it and the price is very reasonable. I'm about done with the 105, just a few details left to take care of. I think the bearings on the rear mounted gear box are about to go. Now that the PTO and belt are running fine, it does not sound smooth. I'm knee deep in the tiller rebuild. I'll post some pics of that later.