Bought My 2nd Cub - Page 7

Andy2182 · #61 01-09-2015, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Sooner or later if you play this game long enough you are going to get bitten. I bought this one from an OCC member and it was not as represented. Let the buyer beware.

Is that the 1862 Sam? With a different hood? Do I need to make things right with you?

Oak · #62 01-10-2015, 10:01 AM

Andy, that is a 1641 Sam got a year or so ago, not the 1862 you traded.

Sam Mac · #63 01-10-2015, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andy2182

Is that the 1862 Sam? With a different hood? Do I need to make things right with you?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oak

Andy, that is a 1641 Sam got a year or so ago, not the 1862 you traded.

Yep that is a 1641. Andy, as I told you before I'm good with deal we did.

Cannon51 · #64 01-10-2015, 02:34 PM

This morning I went out and drove the new seal in then took a 3/8 die and chased the threads on the stud to remove any JB. When I started to put the starter on I noticed that someone has done a bunch of grinding on the back side of it. I suspect this is a replacement of the original, but not necessarily the correct one. I counted 16 teeth and it seems to be like the ones I have that fit 8-12.5 Briggs flat heads
Cannon.

Cannon51 · #65 01-12-2015, 06:15 AM

Yesterday after watching the Cowboys loose I took a starter off one of my other Briggs engines and put it on the Vanguard. I had to drill the mounting holes out to 3/8 but it fit the block better than the one that was on it. I got a battery and some jumper cables and tried it before I torqued the flywheel. At first the starter was turning backwards and not engaging the flywheel, I finely figured out that I had the cables on the battery wrong. Doing dumb crap seems to be part of the process for me. Hopefully today I will get the shrouds cleaned up and installed so I can crank it and see if the stater is charging. I need to round up some metric screws, about half of them were missing from the shrouds. God help me if I ever need to get the nut off the top starter mounting stud. I may try to rig up a way to crank it on the bench to test it.
Cannon

Sam Mac · #66 01-12-2015, 10:32 AM

Looks good from here. If the engine is still bolted to the motor plate it's not all that hard to test it I just clamp it to my bench. Wiring is the biggest PITA.

Cannon51 · #67 01-14-2015, 07:18 PM

I got all the sheet metal back on. Before I set the engine I wanted to wash under the engine pan and remove the fender and gas tank and wash the transmission. First I couldn't get any of the foot board bolts off, then I wanted to remove the hitch plate but the lift adjuster wouldn't unscrew. I just blew out what I could of it. Got it home set the engine, hooked up every thing and got it cranked. I checked battery voltage and only got a little over 12v but the stater is putting out a little over 29ac. The manual says it should be 30ac but maybe 29ac is close enough. I checked DC coming out of the voltage regulator and got OL. I'm hoping a new voltage regulator will get it charging. After washing off the trans I can see some gray RTV squeeze out at the cover plate, right axle tube and at the pump connection. It seems to be working ok so I don't know if I will open it up or just change fluid and filter. Still need to get the muffler shield, air filter and a few things back on.
Cannon

Sam Mac · #68 01-14-2015, 07:30 PM

Nasty, nasty, nasty. Glad you got it cleaned up. 29 volts AC is about right. I'd run it for a while with the regulator you have and see what happens, I've seen a few of them that for lack of a better term were lazy. They seem to drop down to 11 or so and then will charge up to around 15. I've had better luck when replacing a B&S regulator by converting to a Kohler regulator. Just trying to save you some $$$$.

Cannon51 · #69 01-16-2015, 10:58 AM

Yesterday I put the seat back on and started on the air dam behind the engine. More dumb crap, I should have installed it with the engine. I took the bolts out of the engine plate slid it forward and put the lower divider in, got it all slid back in place and put the top air dam on. I put the rear hitch plate back on and drained the engine oil. This morning I tried to put one of the 3.4 inch oil filters on that I use on everything else but it was to long. I need a 2.3 or 2.7 inch filter. I started on the air filter housing, cleaned it all up, new gasket on top of the carb, new breather tube, then couldn't find the screws that hold it on. I'll add that to the list of things to find today. I haven't put the PTO back on yet, haven't figured out how I'm going to hold the engine to torque it. I don't like doing the rope in the cylinder thing on OHV engines.
Cannon

Sam Mac · #70 01-16-2015, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cannon51

Yesterday I put the seat back on and started on the air dam behind the engine. More dumb crap, I should have installed it with the engine. I took the bolts out of the engine plate slid it forward and put the lower divider in, got it all slid back in place and put the top air dam on. I put the rear hitch plate back on and drained the engine oil. This morning I tried to put one of the 3.4 inch oil filters on that I use on everything else but it was to long. I need a 2.3 or 2.7 inch filter. I started on the air filter housing, cleaned it all up, new gasket on top of the carb, new breather tube, then couldn't find the screws that hold it on. I'll add that to the list of things to find today. I haven't put the PTO back on yet, haven't figured out how I'm going to hold the engine to torque it. I don't like doing the rope in the cylinder thing on OHV engines.Cannon

3/8" impact wrench works just fine. Never had a problem.