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  #61  
Old 04-17-2017, 09:57 PM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sorner View Post
Here are pics of my transmission, it might be a little hard to see the red gasket material. The second picture shows the oddball bolt.

Attachment 83879
Attachment 83880

I'll have to run it to see where it leaks because it doesn't seem to be leaking just sitting. It seems to leave a puddle after I drive it.
Welcome to the cork gasket club. Just plan on removing the rear, pull the pump and replace the gasket also replace the axle seal. Do the check valves while your at it then you should be good for another 20 years.
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  #62  
Old 04-17-2017, 10:43 PM
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This does not make me happy. It better be good for another 20 years after all this... Especially since I have a 1641 sitting right beside it that doesn't leak a drop. Still the 1864 seems like a good deal, I only have about $80 into the gaskets and filters and plugs, and $50 in a battery, and $40 in valve covers beyond the $275 I paid. The cork gasket area looks like it's dry, the wetness is further back. I can see it seems a little damp at the axle housing on the bottom. Would those leak more when ran? It hasn't dripped at all since yesterday, but it seems to be weeping a bit. I pushed it outside and back in, I didn't run it. Now I can't run it because the gas tank is out.
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  #63  
Old 04-17-2017, 11:15 PM
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One of the best Cyclops out there for only $405 invested? Yeah, you did all right.
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  #64  
Old 04-17-2017, 11:27 PM
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Well maybe, if I can keep all the fluids in it long enough to actually use it I could agree. I think I probably will start with the axle housing seals and bolt hole seals Sam suggested and take my chances and wait on the cork gasket. That looks like something I'm not sure I want to get into right now if I don't see evidence of a leak there. Since I know it was taken apart to that level already (I dont know why...), either it was leaking and the PO tried fixing it or something else happened and they had it apart and didn't put it back together right. What is recommended to re-seal that? I have a big tube of Permatex Blue here already.
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  #65  
Old 04-18-2017, 08:40 AM
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If you suspect that it's leaking from the bolts here is what I would do.
1: Drain the oil.
2: Remove the bolts
3: Go the Wally World and get a rifle brush probably for a 45 and a extension
4: Use the brush and brake clean to clean the bolt holes
5: Get some Permatex #3 for the bolts
6: Coat the threads on the bolts and reinstall them
7: make sure they have washers and lock washers on them
8: Torque the bolts to 35 FT LBS.
9: Let it sit for a day then refill the oil.
10: Pray

Looking at your pics I can't tell if the PO did or did not have the axle tubes off. Yours looks OK, this is what I've seen when you talk about a silicone glob job.
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File Type: jpg IMG_3028.jpg (24.4 KB, 93 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3029.jpg (33.0 KB, 91 views)
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  #66  
Old 04-18-2017, 10:30 AM
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More evidence of the seal leaking? A drip is forming. This is looking up from the bottom. IMG_3453.jpg
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  #67  
Old 04-18-2017, 11:21 AM
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OK I see the red silicone in that pic. If it was my tractor I'd just bite the bullet and pull the rear out and open it up and reseal it. New axle seals, tube gaskets, drill the oil return holes, new cork gasket etc. It's not an overwhelming job. I'd also stick a set of Xtreme GT braces on then you'll have a bulletproof tractor that will last for many years of hard use.
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  #68  
Old 04-18-2017, 11:24 AM
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Or you could sell it to me. Google says your 347 miles north so I'll give you $750 for it delivered to me.
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  #69  
Old 04-18-2017, 12:24 PM
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Sam likes those 1864 one eyed beauties.
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  #70  
Old 04-18-2017, 12:51 PM
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Sam likes those 1864 one eyed beauties.
In my opinion the 1864 is the best GT Cub ever built.
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