Had better days with the 2372 - Page 7

zippy1 · #61 08-03-2017, 12:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

OK it's your tractor but I would stick a shaft from an 1882 in it if it was my tractor considering everything else you have done to it.

I know you know what you speak of Sam, and I do appreciate it, but sometimes I just "need" to do things my way, and either sink or swim. If I sink, you can say, "I told you".

jaynjeep · #62 08-03-2017, 01:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zippy1

I know you know what you speak of Sam, and I do appreciate it, but sometimes I just "need" to do things my way, and either sink or swim. If I sink, you can say, "I told you".

I doubt you will sink Todd!!

we all like to do things "our way" from time to time!!

zippy1 · #63 08-05-2017, 12:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaynjeep

I doubt you will sink Todd!!

we all like to do things "our way" from time to time!!

farmall fred · #64 08-05-2017, 10:47 AM

Todd, good luck with your repairs. I know what you mean about doing things your own way. I think the set screw idea will work to retain the yoke but I would make sure that you get full depth on the drive shaft into the bearings on the adaptors on the engine and rear end. I just cannot see how that shaft could have came out of there if both ends of the shaft are piloted in the bearings and the coupler on the rear end was on the input shaft all of the way. You should have to move the engine or rear at least 1 inch to get the shaft out. Is it possible that the shaft is too short? I am sure you will work it out.

Tom

Oak · #65 08-05-2017, 02:25 PM

I agree with Farmall Fred. When I had Jeff in PA make my 982 shaft I measured from the input shaft up to the flywheel and subtracted 1/2". The only way it can come out now is to move the engine or the rear. I'm not sure it would even need the set screws or pin and just let it float on the input shaft.

J-Mech · #66 08-05-2017, 02:32 PM

I agree with Oak. If the shaft is the right length, you don't need set screws. They won't hold anyway. The input shaft is too hard for a set screw to hold. A set screw needs to "bite" into the shaft to be effective.

zippy1 · #67 08-06-2017, 01:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

I agree with Oak. If the shaft is the right length, you don't need set screws. They won't hold anyway. The input shaft is too hard for a set screw to hold. A set screw needs to "bite" into the shaft to be effective.

The set screws will be set into the groove of the splined shaft, (input). and will be re-installing the engine, and measure for the new driveshaft.
It'll work fine. I had a vision the other night, and all is good, couldn't be better.

zippy1 · #68 08-17-2017, 08:57 PM

Got the lines. The long one is nuts on, but the other is wrong. To short, and incorrect bends. Seems like the lines came off two different tractors, the "short" line is clean, and the "long" one has significant rust...
Been trying to contact him for the last week to no avail. Wanted to find out what tractor the "short" one came from...

Does anyone know what tractor it could have came from?
Original one is on the bottom.

Original one is on the right.

darkminion_17 · #69 08-17-2017, 09:07 PM

I do not think it matters which tractor the WRONG one came off of, it is wrong, keep emailing him, call him.

J-Mech · #70 08-17-2017, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

I do not think it matters which tractor the WRONG one came off of, it is wrong, keep emailing him, call him.

Agreed.

Also, the bend on the "new" line looks like it has been "adjusted". That's not a factory bend.