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  #61  
Old 07-24-2018, 07:09 PM
jaykhjr jaykhjr is offline
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
Well, if it's a wheel bearing like I think it is, he likely did. More than one bearing style will work. Wheel bearing, sealed ball bearing..... more than one option.


No big updates today. Just fixed the end of the steering shaft. Cut off about 1/8", ground down 2 or 3 flared put threads below that. And ran a die down the remaining threads.
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  #62  
Old 07-24-2018, 07:53 PM
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Those are the toughest splines known to mankind!
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  #63  
Old 07-24-2018, 08:36 PM
jaykhjr jaykhjr is offline
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Those are the toughest splines known to mankind!


I tightened down a hub puller and applied heat. 15 seconds later my puller was on the other side of the garage and my ears were ringing. That steering wheel let loose like a shotgun shell lol
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  #64  
Old 07-27-2018, 07:09 AM
jaykhjr jaykhjr is offline
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Those are the toughest splines known to mankind!
Do you guys have any tips for removing those split washers that hold the bearings on the steering shaft? I dont want to damage them but I can't get a decent grip on them to get them off.
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  #65  
Old 07-27-2018, 10:11 AM
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I just recently rebuilt mine. Pretty sure I just used a couple of screw drivers and worked my way around. I know I didn't use any special tools. IT is equally fun getting them back on.

Bill
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  #66  
Old 07-30-2018, 07:47 PM
jaykhjr jaykhjr is offline
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Alright, need more help guys. Got the puller from A1... let it sit in blaster (out of Kroil) heated it up, put it on and applied pressure and light heat as a turned, and this is all I got. Any other ideas?
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  #67  
Old 07-30-2018, 08:12 PM
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Alright, need more help guys. Got the puller from A1... let it sit in blaster (out of Kroil) heated it up, put it on and applied pressure and light heat as a turned, and this is all I got. Any other ideas?
Did you tighten the side screws against the crankshaft? The should go in and "almost" touch ( turned in and backed off a 1/4 turn ) Using air tools?

I'll get another screw to you, that shouldn't have broken.

EDIT--
Until you get another bolt mailed to you, a 3/8-16 NC bolt with a point ground on the end will work. Put a nut on the bolt before grinding so it "straightens out" the threads when you remove it.
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  #68  
Old 07-30-2018, 08:16 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by jaykhjr View Post
Alright, need more help guys. Got the puller from A1... let it sit in blaster (out of Kroil) heated it up, put it on and applied pressure and light heat as a turned, and this is all I got. Any other ideas?
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Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa View Post
Did you tighten the side screws against the crankshaft? The should go in and "almost" touch ( turned in and backed off a 1/4 turn ) Using air tools?

I'll get another screw to you, that shouldn't have broken.
What Jeff said.

But I will add..... I see burnt paint on the pulley, but not on the collar. You need to heat the collar. Heating the pulley won't do a dang thing. Heat up the collar, then put the puller on and pull. You also need to polish up that shaft with some emry cloth before you try again. Make is shine. Spray the shaft with Kroil before pulling.
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  #69  
Old 07-30-2018, 08:46 PM
jaykhjr jaykhjr is offline
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Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa View Post
Did you tighten the side screws against the crankshaft? The should go in and "almost" touch ( turned in and backed off a 1/4 turn ) Using air tools?

I'll get another screw to you, that shouldn't have broken.

EDIT--
Until you get another bolt mailed to you, a 3/8-16 NC bolt with a point ground on the end will work. Put a nut on the bolt before grinding so it "straightens out" the threads when you remove it.

Hey Jeff, that's awesome of you but let me pay you for it. I had some force on that bolt when it broke. Let me know what I owe you. I'll see if I can use what's left of the current bolt.
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  #70  
Old 07-30-2018, 08:47 PM
jaykhjr jaykhjr is offline
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What Jeff said.

But I will add..... I see burnt paint on the pulley, but not on the collar. You need to heat the collar. Heating the pulley won't do a dang thing. Heat up the collar, then put the puller on and pull. You also need to polish up that shaft with some emry cloth before you try again. Make is shine. Spray the shaft with Kroil before pulling.

I'm not sure why the paint is not burning on the collar, I'm applying heat directly onto it. I'll have to give it another shot. I'll shine up that shaft tomorrow before I give it a shot
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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