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  #71  
Old 02-24-2017, 10:16 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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Ya put that brand new mill in amidst all those greasy dirty parts??!!
Geesh!....
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  #72  
Old 02-24-2017, 10:19 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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I'm trying to understand what all the washers behind the PTO are for?? Good grief. How about a spacer? Bushings maybe??
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  #73  
Old 02-24-2017, 11:55 AM
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Leadslingingdaddy Leadslingingdaddy is offline
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Was wondering the same thing....
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  #74  
Old 02-24-2017, 12:01 PM
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PTO should bolt flat to the face of the engine. If the shaft is too long just use a spacer on the end to make sure that you get the proper crush or the PTO will eat itself. Personally I'd contact Xtreme for a new PTO. They can furnish you with something that will bolt on and work like it should. https://xtremeope.com/ ask for Jason.
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  #75  
Old 02-24-2017, 02:12 PM
dbuck dbuck is offline
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I would have least clean the pto up. It seems to me that the torque from the pto could possibly shear those bolts, with all those washer used as spacers.
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  #76  
Old 02-24-2017, 02:36 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbuck View Post
I would have least clean the pto up. It seems to me that the torque from the pto could possibly shear those bolts, with all those washer used as spacers.
It's just a magnet. No torque on those bolts.
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  #77  
Old 02-24-2017, 03:02 PM
Jrobert Jrobert is offline
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The washers were needed to get the correct spacing between the magnet and the part that spins around the magnet (The magnet doesn't contact any moving parts, and doesn't move... The magnet part does bolt against the block, but then you cant slide the rest of the stuff close enough - do to the crank design... I chose washers because they are $6 a box vs $14 for the spacers, also the spacers the menards had aren't very wide, so wider washers seemed like they would distribute the pressure more evenly. And the best part is to get the perfect spacing you can add/minus washers as needed.

In the kit SEW sold, they provided brass spacers for between the magnet backing and the block- As far as I can tell... That was it.

This PTO is pretty old and has a lot of cracking on the magnet, so I didnt want to go crazy cleaning it.

Here is a link to the adapter... Once they are gone I don't think they will make more, but if you have the machining equipment they seem fairly easy to make. Once I am finished I will post a parts list of all the bolts, washers, nuts, etc that are needed.


http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/...tegory=1709370
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  #78  
Old 02-24-2017, 05:09 PM
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I thought that the crank was a 1" diameter? I was reading on the JD forum that it starts at 1", then steps up to 1-1/8" and then 1-7/16" can you confirm this? As far as the SEW adapter does the Honda adapter bolt up to the Predator with no mods? If so I may buy one just in case I ever do a Predator repower.
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  #79  
Old 02-24-2017, 05:59 PM
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I did a little digging and found the dimensions for the shaft, looks like they have an extended shoulder, it sticks out .72" from the face of the mounting surface of the engine so I have to agree with your washer fix. If your existing PTO gives up the style PTO that Xtreme sells will work. Here is a pic of the front of the Predator with dimensions. I downloaded the service book if you want a copy PM me with your e-mail address and I'll send it to you.
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  #80  
Old 02-24-2017, 07:48 PM
Jrobert Jrobert is offline
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Correct it comes as 1", you need the to 1 1/8th adapter found on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-to-1-1-8-i...gAAOSw5VFWGSvV

Then you will need to cut the key shorter since the PTO uses such a small one on the 682.

Right now its all bolted in and aligned.... PHEW! Moving that 150LB beast in and out of the 682 alone isn't the easiest... Thinking back now removing the hood and the grill woulda really helped. But too late now.

Now to tighten it all down the last 12 bolts and add fresh gas, oil, battery, connect a few wires and give it a crank.
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