Project 982

[Terry C]

Maybe put a drive shaft with cv joints in since you need a new one anyway? Just a thought.
Good information on the differences between the two engines. Thanks!

[IliketheRedcubs]

Looking good Todd! Hopefully you can get your driveshaft issues figured out!

[Oak]

Terry, I'm sure the CV system is better but I don't log that many hours on mine + it looks like the po put a new rear coupler on it.

Darrell, Jeff is going to make me a new shaft. I've had some other work done by him and it was top notch stuff. I am so glad he is a member on here.

[J-Mech]

I know Sam loves the CV shafts..... but I don't see the big improvement. I've replaced the spirol pins in the driveshaft on my 1811 once since I've owned it. I'm sure they were original. It's got just over 2000 hours on it now. Had 1300 or so when I bought it. All the rest of the driveshaft parts are original. So........ 2000+ hours tells me that those part hold up well.

[Terry C]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

I know Sam loves the CV shafts..... but I don't see the big improvement. I've replaced the spirol pins in the driveshaft on my 1811 once since I've owned it. I'm sure they were original. It's got just over 2000 hours on it now. Had 1300 or so when I bought it. All the rest of the driveshaft parts are original. So........ 2000+ hours tells me that those part hold up well.

I did the cv thing cause my splines were slightly worn, and the cv pump coupler had more engagement of the splines. Part of the cv coupler was on splines that never had anything on them. Not all couplers are longer and I wish I knew the number of the tractor it came from, it had a nose that stuck out and some I have did not.

[flatpickerray]

Originally Posted by Oak

Thanks everyone.

I'm getting Jeff to make me a new driveshaft but I thought I better fit the old one up before I send him the dimensions. Good thing I did because the original is a little over 1/2" short.

This just a test fit so don't make fun of my bolts.

Here is the front fitted up. Looks normal to me.
Attachment 84303
Here is what the back looks like.
Attachment 84304
No movement on the motor plate either. The next hole is 1.2" back so that won't work.
Attachment 84305

This tractor now has an Onan P220 in it but I had to use the crank and oil pan from the old B48G original engine. I'm thinking the blocks are the same but maybe not

Any thoughts on why she no worky?

Hi Oak, I just ran into this exact same problem. Someone replaced my engine with a Linamar and apparently it must have a different fly wheel too. My drive shaft was about 1/2 to 5/8 too short. Whoever did it just cobbled it in there. I had to buy a new splined adapter for the hydro end cause it was barely on the shaft and wore it pretty bad.
My mounting plate has slotted holes. One set of slots had enough room to slide the engine back but the other set was to the end, I had to lengthen that set of slots and I was able to make it work. When you have your driveshaft made, I would have the 5/8 part made longer too. By the time you get two flex discs in there it doesn't go into the brass bushings very far, at least mine don't.

On another note, I just fired mine up today for the first time to adjust the hydro linkage, the driveshaft and all ran smooth, however the hydro seal is leaking pretty bad so now I have to pull it apart again. Ray

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by flatpickerray

Hi Oak, I just ran into this exact same problem. Someone replaced my engine with a Linamar and apparently it must have a different fly wheel too. My drive shaft was about 1/2 to 5/8 too short. Whoever did it just cobbled it in there. I had to buy a new splined adapter for the hydro end cause it was barely on the shaft and wore it pretty bad.
My mounting plate has slotted holes. One set of slots had enough room to slide the engine back but the other set was to the end, I had to lengthen that set of slots and I was able to make it work. When you have your driveshaft made, I would have the 5/8 part made longer too. By the time you get two flex discs in there it doesn't go into the brass bushings very far, at least mine don't.

On another note, I just fired mine up today for the first time to adjust the hydro linkage, the driveshaft and all ran smooth, however the hydro seal is leaking pretty bad so now I have to pull it apart again. Ray

The driveshaft I'll be making is 26" long. It should work out fine but Todd will have the final say.

[Oak]

Flatpickerry, yes, I had Jeff make the 5/8 ends a total length on each side at 1.375" long.

With the Onan in the engine plate and everything bolted up I had 24.5" from face to face on the ball bushings. As Jeff said the new shaft is 26" and I should have 0.625 of the 5/8 shaft exposed on the driveshaft side of the coupler and 3/4" of the 5/8 will be inserted in the ball bushing. That should give me 1/4" sticking out towards the crank and the hydro input shaft because the ball bushings are only 1/2 deep".

I'll post picks and let you know how it goes.

[flatpickerray]

Sounds like you have it under control. If I start having problems with mine, I'll have him make me a new one too. I'll try to post some pics tomorrow before I tear it down again.

[Jeff in Pa]

Driveshaft ships tomorrow. I forgot to take pictures before packing it up.

I emailed you the tracking link. Thanks