New to Pulling

[bschmittling]

I appreciate all the help so far. My goal is just to win a couple of trophies. I have never won a trophy or ribbon in my life and this is really important to me. The rules of my classes are as follows:

Garden Stock Altered (Bar and turf tires can be ground)
1. Single cylinder 14 HP engines and under.
2. 4000 RPM limit, regardless of flywheel type.
3. 1050 pounds weight limit.
4. All tractors must be stock in appearance. Officials must approve
alterations.
5. All engines must have OEM dimensions and specifications noted in
these rules.
6. Stock Block - can be sleeved—must maintain stock bore no more than
.030 over.
7. Stock head.
8. Stock crankshaft stroke must be maintained. Steel cranks allowed.
9. Stock valves required.
10. After market camshafts permitted. .330" max lift at zero lash.
11. Head gasket must be a composition gasket – no copper gaskets.
12. Stock carburetor required – venturi to be no more than 1.200" diameter.
13. Choke can be removed.
14. No intake standoffs allowed – 1 inch spacer maximum.
15. Exhaust for all tractors must discharge upwards or towards the rear of
the tractor - not out to the side, unless running stock muffler (discretion
of officials).
16. All clutch assemblies must be covered 180 degrees on topside. If you
have belts, they must have a safety shield.
17. 13" hitch height maximum.
18. 23x 10.50x 12 tire size maximum (Bar and Turf tires, can be ground ).
19. Pump gas only
20. Canister type coil.
21. 60" Wheelbase max..
22. Must have working kill switch with 2 inch ring.


LIGHT STOCK MODIFIED (Bar tires & Turf tires)
1. Single cylinder 12 HP engines and under.
2. 4000 RPM limit, regardless of flywheel type.
3. 1000 pounds weight limit.
4. All tractors must be stock in appearance. Officials must approve
alterations.
5. All engines must have OEM dimensions and specifications noted in
these rules.
6. Stock Block - can be sleeved—must maintain stock bore no more than
.030 over.
7. Stock head.
8. Stock crankshaft stroke must be maintained. Steel cranks allowed.
9. Stock valves required.
10. After market camshafts permitted. .330" max lift at zero lash.
11. Head gasket must be a composition gasket – no copper gaskets.
12. Stock carburetor required – venturi to be no more than 1.200" diameter.
13. Choke can be removed.
14. No intake standoffs allowed – 1 inch spacer maximum.
15. Exhaust for all tractors must discharge upwards or towards the rear of
the tractor - not out to the side, unless running stock muffler (discretion
of officials).
16. All clutch assemblies must be covered 180 degrees on topside. If you
have belts, they must have a safety shield.
17. 13" hitch height maximum.
18. 26x 12x 12 tire size maximum (Bar And Turf tires only).
19. Pump gas or racing gas allowed, no Alcohol nitro.
20. Canister type coil.
21. 60" Wheelbase max.
22. Dead Man throttle (return to idle automatic) recommended but not required.
23. Must have working kill switch with 2 inch ring.

[bschmittling]

I am running a Cub 124 that may have pulled before. I don't know what has been done to the engine but it is strong. The clutch is good and it has a red spring. What I have done so far:

Wheelie bars
Adjustable hitch
New #26 carburetor
Kill switch
Front weight bracket
100 lbs of suitcase weights
New Carlisle super lug tires (that is another story)
Vogel 12x10 aluminum rims
10" front tires
Added a switch to disable the generator
Bosch coil
Point saver ignition

Extra parts I bought before I figured out what I was doing and have not installed:
Fine splined rear axle and differential
Aluminum 6 pin 3 puck clutch and heavy duty drive shaft
Electric fuel pump

The competition is mostly running K301s with Bosch coils and Tru Power tires.

My question is, what do I need to do to win next season? Go ahead and install the fine splined differential? Add an over drive gear? Any suggestions are appreciated. I will rebuild the engine after next season.

[austin8214]

With those rules a cam would be a big help. I would not worry much about gearing until you get your engine rebuilt and you get a feel for the tracks you are pulling on.

[dvogtvpe]

buy a steel crank, new rod and an oversize piston. balance the rotating assembly. if you can find the rare kohler governor weight assembly put that in. put the 30 lb flywheel on it and a heavy steel starter pulley, put a cam in it, mill the head till there's about .050 between the top of the valve and the head when the valve is open. playdoh or bubble gum works good for this. advance the ignition timing , deck off the top of the block till the piston is flush with the top. if an adjustable cam gear is allowed do that and advance the cam timing. a good valve job, dyno tune it to its optimum , dyno tuned exhaust pipe, a little fine tuning in the carb . should be a pretty stout motor. for a fuel pump I'd use the kohler mechanical pump,

you will then need the finespline rear. and a good clutch. put a 15-17 gearset in , lower pinion retainer, weld up your shift forks so they don't bend. run it at a few pulls and then if you need a faster gear then you can toss a OD in.

if you don't have a clue how to do this then just send it to someone who does with a blank check or a box of big box of cash . otherwise its just trial and error and allot of beating your head against a wall

[bschmittling]

Originally Posted by dvogtvpe

buy a steel crank, new rod and an oversize piston. balance the rotating assembly. if you can find the rare kohler governor weight assembly put that in. put the 30 lb flywheel on it and a heavy steel starter pulley, put a cam in it, mill the head till there's about .050 between the top of the valve and the head when the valve is open. playdoh or bubble gum works good for this. advance the ignition timing , deck off the top of the block till the piston is flush with the top. if an adjustable cam gear is allowed do that and advance the cam timing. a good valve job, dyno tune it to its optimum , dyno tuned exhaust pipe, a little fine tuning in the carb . should be a pretty stout motor. for a fuel pump I'd use the kohler mechanical pump,

you will then need the finespline rear. and a good clutch. put a 15-17 gearset in , lower pinion retainer, weld up your shift forks so they don't bend. run it at a few pulls and then if you need a faster gear then you can toss a OD in.

if you don't have a clue how to do this then just send it to someone who does with a blank check or a box of big box of cash . otherwise its just trial and error and allot of beating your head against a wall

OK. I have no problem spending money. Just don't like wasting money. Steel crank? Why. I will not be running over 4000 rpm. Same for balancing. I am thinking deck the block, shave .04 off the heads, add a good cam, and I am good for 5 extra horsepower. That should be enough to get me where I want to go. If not, I'll add more next year.

What I would like to know is given the above mods and using 23" tires, what overdrive should I use? I am trying to shave a year off tuning and just come out next year ready to go. Without an answer, I would just go 10 percent. Any thoughts?

I will post pics of the last new Carlisle Super Lugs on the planet soon. After comparing them to my Destones, I can see why they are so popular.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by bschmittling

OK. I have no problem spending money. Just don't like wasting money. Steel crank? Why. I will not be running over 4000 rpm. Same for balancing.

Crank: Stronger (less likely to break), better suited to the load (of both the added stress, and rotating mass) longer life, more mass.

Balancing: Because when you go changing parts, adding stress, weight, aftermarket components, then the balance of the engine no longer exists. A balanced engine runs better, safer (less likely to fail) and runs more optimally. Imagine trying to run a marathon with a 5lb weight on one foot and a 10lb weight on the other....... kind of like that.

RPM=who cares how fast you want to run it. Under 4K, over 4K.... irrelevant.

Originally Posted by bschmittling

I am thinking deck the block, shave .04 off the heads, add a good cam, and I am good for 5 extra horsepower. That should be enough to get me where I want to go. If not, I'll add more next year.

Well, seems you have it all figured out. Don't need anyone's help here.

5hp...... I'm doubtful at under 4K.

Originally Posted by bschmittling

What I would like to know is given the above mods and using 23" tires, what overdrive should I use? I am trying to shave a year off tuning and just come out next year ready to go. Without an answer, I would just go 10 percent. Any thoughts?

Apparently you aren't paying attention. You can't "skip steps". No idea what gearing you need until you build a motor and try it on the track. This isn't a "one size fits all" kind of thing. You have to BUILD the tractor. Every one is different. Just like every track is different.


I'm kind of flabbergasted that you keep asking questions, but seem to question the advice. dvogtvpe basically told you how to build your motor. He's build lots and lots of them. Probably in your best interest to just build it like he says.

[dvogtvpe]

5 hp ? gotta stop smoking weed. cause's people to get odd ideas. you will pick up some torque but no hp. crank is for reliability. have 55 lbs of mass on each end of a crank and its days are numbered. balencing is a reliability factor to. you asked what you needed to win. I told you. a motor like that is really tough to beat. We have our own dyno. we know what does what when you change something.

[bschmittling]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

I'm kind of flabbergasted that you keep asking questions, but seem to question the advice. dvogtvpe basically told you how to build your motor. He's build lots and lots of them. Probably in your best interest to just build it like he says.

There seems to be a lot of misinformation on the web. That is why I keep asking questions.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by bschmittling

There seems to be a lot of misinformation on the web. That is why I keep asking questions.

That is correct. You can take the info on this site to the bank. We aren't the best site for all things Cub Cadet for nothing! The guys on here know their stuff.

[dvogtvpe]

Originally Posted by bschmittling

There seems to be a lot of misinformation on the web. That is why I keep asking questions.

there's one very popular web site for pulling. 90% of it is out dated or inaccurate. unfortunately when new pullers search that site comes up allot.